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Gangrène T 
Var. de Verrat de Vérot S 
Zebrée T 

Var. de Verrat de Vérot 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pierre Vérot (Finished by Alain Hénault & Normand Cadieux, 1971) FFA Thomas Ryan, 1985
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Jerome St-Michel on May 8, 2017

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Description 

A spectacular, hard and technical route that you will be able to climb on rainy days.

Clip a high bolt while still standing on the ledge, proceed on the right of the bolt laybacking on good holds to reestablish yourself underneath the second bolt. Traverse left underclingin and using goog foot holds, clip a third bolt and crank a hard move to get established on a steep slab. Get psyched for the tiny holds above, keep traversing left clipping another bolt to a good rest atop of the slab. Finish by climbing to overhanging corner which is protected by 4 bolts to the Anchor.

Location 

The route starts on the ledge atop of "Dalle de la Putréfaction (5.2 to 5.7)". It is possible to solo up to the ledge. On the ledge, there is a single bumper bolt to clip-in while belaying for Var. de Verrat de Vérot.

The route starts on the very right side of the ledge.

Protection 

Quickdraws


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