REI Community
5. Romance Novels
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Going Steady TR 
Hidden Target, The TR 
Middlemarch TR 
New York to Dallas 33 TR 
Night Smoke TR 
Pride and Prejudice TR 
Vanity Fair TR 
When Two Paths Meet TR 

Vanity Fair 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - Left (SW) side: A. Middlemarch C....

Description 

Interesting moves in a variety of rock situations. But the crux move is significantly harder than the rest.

Up the corner/crack to a big ledge. Walk left-ward across the ledge to center-right of a wide face. Up this about ten feet, then step right (crux) to a substantial left-facing corner. Up that to the top.

. . ?? (possible future variation ? . From the big ledge, aim for the big protruding block in the right wall of the substantial left-facing corner: but that big block might be loose, so need to check it from above carefully first -- with nobody anywhere below). ??

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

About twenty feet up steep dirt slope along left side of this Romantic Novels rock, under a left-facing corner/crack.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Romance Novels sector .

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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