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Vandals Took The Handle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Fredrichs, James Garrett
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: JeffL on Jun 30, 2016

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Pitch 3 in the Alpenglow

Description 

Climb the first pitch of Thunder Crack to a bolted belay. It is possible to build a belay higher and to the right, probably better for the leader on P2.

Climb to the right, up the weakness through broken rock. The original route stayed in the corner to the right, we traversed left to the bolt, gaining the exposed arete. Continue up the arete to a nice stance and a 2 bolt belay.

P3 continues up the arete and face to a nice ledge. It is exposed and the protection comes when needed, but you can't sew it up.

3 raps down the bolted anchors. We had 2x60m ropes, 2x50m probably works. You can also scramble to the summit and take the same descent as Hyperform.

Location 

Climb Thunder Crack, 100 feet left of Hyperform. The high point of talus to a big ledge with pine trees.

Protection 

Standard LPC rack. Single 2 and 3 camalot is sufficient if using the bolted belays. The pro is a little sporty, so be comfy at the grade. I would have been happy to place offset aliens or totem cams as the cracks are flaring in some spots. The bolt on p2 is bomber.


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By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 30, 2016

Bring a knife to cut the tat at the anchors. There is so much, it's stiff, crusty and not that great. Quick links or biners for the bolts would be adequate to make the anchors ideal, tat would be another temporary fix.

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