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Vandalism Deception 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 39'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Lewis and Alain Dallaire - Fall 2009
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: Vincent larochelle on Jul 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Vandalism Deception 5.10

Description 

  • * Submitted by Alex Weber **

This climb is seriously awful. My vote for worst climb in the Yukon.
Starts with a funny mantle. Maybe you crawl into the chimney... but the first bolt is way out left... so that doesn't make much sense.
Ok fine. You're standing on a good ledge and clip the first bolt. Second bolt is just above. Not too bad to get there, but where do you go now? The third bolt is straight up, and run-out. You can head left on some small features... or straight up on very difficult moves... but either way, you risk falling quite a ways down.
Or you head far right, into the chimney. Why?! From here it's pretty easy to get to the third bolt. Finishing is also tricky. How was this originally rated a 5.8?

Protection 

4 bolts. Two expansion bolt top anchors. One has a d-link. The other does not.


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