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Van Damage 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pink L. Bear
New Route: Yes
Season: All but winter
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 26, 2011  with updates from TimPark

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Derek on the technical hand jams and laybacks mid-...

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  • Description 

    Van Damage was the leftmost climb on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on The Orb (pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.

    The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to incorporate a couple of tough clips into your sequence. On the flip side, you can sit right across from the route at the top of the slot and scope out every hold!

    This is great, overhanging power-endurance climbing. It doesn't really let up from the ground to the anchor.

    Per TimPark: the bolt line to climber's left at the very end of the gully is an alternate start.


    This was the leftmost route on Frisky Cliff, beginning on The Orb and heading left.


    Seven bolts—pre-clip the first or even second bolt if possible. A shoulder sling or extendo draw is useful on the second clip, for rope drag.

    Comments on Van Damage Add Comment
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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 27, 2011

    Hilarious. I thought about bolting this line way back but felt it was much too close to the gully. Well done.
    By Pinklebear
    Oct 27, 2011

    Classic! You could also have a special shirt sewn-up with a foam back, just in case your belayer is asleep at the wheel. But in all seriousness, having seen people take the falls at the hard moves, you end up stopping well short of the back of the long as you don't skip any clips.
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Aug 27, 2015

    Felt great to clip the anchors on this bad boy and had so much fun working on it. What a great addition to the cliff. Make sure to tape both hands to the wrists and a knee pad for the right is helpful. I put a long draw on the sixth bolt to make it a more friendly clip. Enjoy and yes, this is full on jamming.

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