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Vampire Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Vampire Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 39.997, -105.4139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,152
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001


53° | 38°

42° | 32°

45° | 30°

52° | 34°

54° | 36°
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BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

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  • Description 

    It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.


    A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.
    AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.
    B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts.
    BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
    C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
    C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
    C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
    E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.
    F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.
    G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.
    H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.
    I. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.
    JI. The Politician, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts.
    K. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.
    above K. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.
    L. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.
    above L1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
    above L2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.
    above L3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.
    M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.
    above M. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
    N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.
    O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.
    P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.
    PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

    Crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

    A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
    B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

    Getting There 

    About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.


    You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 4.7 miles from here

    19 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Vampire Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Vampire Rock:
    That's Weak   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
    The Politician   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Crack of Desperation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Chupacabra   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
    Trash It and Move On   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   
    The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Vampire Rock

    Featured Route For Vampire Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Vampire Rock. photo: Bob Horan.

    The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock
    This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb ?That's Weak?...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Vampire Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
    BETA PHOTO: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Vampire Rock.
    Vampire Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the summit.
    Looking down from the summit.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Vampire from Animal World. The large, left-leaning...
    Vampire from Animal World. The large, left-leaning...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke on the Vampire Tyrolean.
    Luke on the Vampire Tyrolean.

    Comments on Vampire Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By D Bueno
    May 12, 2005
    In 1981, a climbing partner of mine asked me to go up the canyon and climb on this rock. I was busy and could not go. It turned out to be very fortuitous as he went with his girlfriend and found a decomposing corpse at the base of the route. Apparently, this poor bloke had been up there for some time and was very advanced in his decomposition. Dave said that he was still wearing his EBs and there was a chalk bag attached to his belt. Would suggest taking a rope if you climb here as the rock is very slick with lichen and there are some very loose holds.
    By Jordan Wood
    Apr 22, 2006
    Has anyone had problems finding the walk off? I did "The Vampire" today, and had a hell of a time finding it. Actually, I don't think we ever did. Eventually, we made it down, but it wasn't exactly a trail. The Rossiter guide made it sound obvious and easy to find. I didn't find that to be the case.
    By Rich Farnham
    Jun 10, 2011
    We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with it's multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

    There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks everyone!

    Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol is directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field. As you get near the crag you will pick up a trail that runs left across the base of the crag.
    By Scotty Nelson
    From: Boulder
    Jun 8, 2012
    I may have lost a GriGri2 (orange) here a few weeks ago. If anyone finds it, I would be eternally grateful if you could get it back to me! Thanks, Scotty

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