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Vampire Diaries 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dennis Buice / Seth Tart
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: S Tart on Jul 26, 2016

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Description 

This is a tricky and beta specific route that gives a lot of people a hard time until they figure out the sequence. Technique your way past two bolts and head left into the dihedral, aiming for a very large flat hold on the outer edge of the dihedral. Clip the 3rd bolt from here and throw you're whole left calf muscle onto the ledge to make a long reach into the blind crux. Even shorter climbers can do it this way. Turn the left side of the arete and veer right up the face above the arete to enter the spooky upper dihedral. Heady lead.

Location 

Left leaning dihedral, just left of all the boulders on the ground at the end of the cliff.

Protection 

Sport


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