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Valse Viennoise TR 

Valse Viennoise 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: sector 1 Gastlosen: high part G. 5th Symphony K. V...


Lots of fun interesting moves all the way.

Up the dihedral with overhang at top. Gentle across ledge to below roof which is a few feet right (north) from below the central cliff-top tree. Up through the roof. Finish straight up slab with less-positive holds.

name: Valse Viennoise is a popular multi-pitch route in sector Grand-Orgue in the (bigger) Switzerland climbing area.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.


At the base of light-rock dihedral / open book six to eight feet wide, roughly below the central cliff-top tree. On the wide grassy ledge that rises diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the cliff face.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . See on this Photo


No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading.

Top-Roping: The two-bolt anchor on the left side of the top of the cliff is too far away from the rope of this route, but there is a substantial low tree / bush back a few feet from the top edge of the cliff, which could be used with a static line.
. . (There is also a directional bolt on the cliff face below left from that low tree / bush -- not useful for this route itself, but might allow some quick convenient "playing" on other rock after finishing this route).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos of Valse Viennoise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gastlosen sector of Silver Fork crag B. Low Slab L...
BETA PHOTO: Gastlosen sector of Silver Fork crag B. Low Slab L...

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