The whole of this area is comprised of four distinct areas, all falling in the terrain to the north of the JBL trail and beneath the ridgeline that forms The Brothers. There is huge potential for new routes. The area is in its infancy, having only the first and third areas seeing attention. The current count of sizable boulders with clean landings and good topouts is at 44, but the second area has yet to be thoroughly investigated. Only a fraction have been developed. The rock varies considerably; a mix of glacier deposits and rockfall from The Brothers. All are well shaded and within the 1,500-2,000 foot range, making the summer temps rather mild. Most boulders are in dry areas, but bugs in the High Peaks can be relentless during mid-summer regardless. Most of the boulders feature hard face-climbing on slab or vertical, with only a few overhanging sides that are actually climbable. Be warned, the general rules at Valleyland are that the climbs are much harder than they first appear, and you might as well accept that starting footholds are a myth. Also, these boulders tend to be laid out in lines rather than clusters. Be prepared to pack up and move your stuff with each new boulder. This is a more adventurous area than a typical ADK boulderfield.
From the Garden trailhead ($7 parking fee per car, per day), take the JBL trail. The approach to the first area (Hilltop Drive) will be reached in less than 5 minutes. When you are about to cross the very first stream, turn to your right (uphill) and locate two moss-covered boulders. Walk directly in between them and you will see a small cairn perched atop the rightmost boulder. A well-packed trail will lead to the first boulder in this area (A-Frame). The second area is directly west of the first. No trail has been started, but after reaching the point where the first area begins heading straight back downhill, just walk along the contour to the west and you'll walk right into a huge cluster. The third area (King's Valley) is accessed .7 miles down the JBL trail. Chuck, a small boulder with an obvious left-rising crack, is perched right off trail. Another minute past that is the true start to the area. Just before the trail takes a sharp left over a small two-plank bridge, the Pretty Face Boulder is very obvious in the woods to the right. From this boulder, walk straight uphill to reach The Kingdom set, or walk at a 45 degree angle to the right (when facing uphill) for 300 feet to reach the Vanagon Boulder. The fourth area (Far-out Land) is the most obvious, but is also 2 miles down the trail. You will walk right into a cluster of 4 very large boulders, the most prominent literally touching the trail on the right with a large, very steeply overhanging side. From these boulders walk straight uphill to find the rest lying in a near perfect line. Approach is anywhere from 7 minutes to an hour, depending on where you stop.
Climbing Season For the High Peaks Region area.
Weather station 9.5 miles from here
24 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Valleyland
Vision of the Victors V5 6C NY
: ... : Victor
Sit start with both hands crossed on arete. Lean hard right, stand up and reach right to a good hold. Establish feet on overhanging side and work to top using the arete on left and small edges on right. Note: The large backwards "C"-shaped flake is out! It is unstable and also far too easy. Also, the large arcing shelf to the right is not to be used for feet. An extra small pad is necessary to cover the pointed rock in the landing zone....[more] Browse More Classics in NY