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Valley Massif

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Hair Done That T 
Best Man T,TR 
Bill Steal T 
Bittersweet T 
Dirty Joke, The T 
Falcon's Lair T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Hammer T 
Hooker T 
Internal Combustion T 
King of Coney Island T,S 
Ladder T 
Monkey Wrench T 
Nail T 
Powder Puff T 
Quits T 
Screw T 
Slut, The T 
Social Security Ran Out T 
Soft Touch T 
Sunny Day T 
Surprise T 
Tail Spin T 
Tea Grinder T 
Tool Or Die T 
Zipper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Valley Massif Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.17325, -105.37667 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,798
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: William Prehm on Nov 30, 1999
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Aspens seen on the way to Valley Massif.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Valley Massif has a collection of good multi-pitch traditional crack climbs. The guidebook for this area declares Valley Massif as one of the loveliest areas in Vedauwoo. I have to agree. This area is made up primarily of two faces--the Northwest face and the Southeast face. The Northwest face stays shaded most of the day and the opposite is true for the Southeast face. The Southeast face has some nesting birds of prey so check for closures. The walk off for most of the routes is to the Northeast.

Getting There 

To get to this area follow the Turtle Rock trail that starts in the parking area near the base of Walt's Wall. The trailhead is on the left side of the parking area when facing Walt's. Follow this trail around until you see the Valley Massif rock outcroppings across the valley. You will have to cross some beaver dams to get there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Valley Massif

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Valley Massif:
Powder Puff   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sunny Day   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Bill Steal   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Soft Touch   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Screw   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Nail   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hammer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Zipper   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Tool Or Die   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Quits   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Monkey Wrench   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
King of Coney Island   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hooker   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Been Hair Done That   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Valley Massif

Featured Route For Valley Massif
Rock Climbing Photo: Down low on Monkey Wrench.

Monkey Wrench 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif
This is the first crack system right of Screw on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw. Heel and Toe describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Valley Massif Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying a brew after Zipper.
Enjoying a brew after Zipper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast face of Valley Massif.
Southeast face of Valley Massif.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan climbing Monkey Wrench at Valley Massif.
Ethan climbing Monkey Wrench at Valley Massif.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan about to crux on the Monkey Wrench.
Ethan about to crux on the Monkey Wrench.
Rock Climbing Photo: We for the life of us couldn't believe there was n...
We for the life of us couldn't believe there was n...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking in on a beautiful fall day, with no one els...
Hiking in on a beautiful fall day, with no one els...
Rock Climbing Photo: Valley Massif.
Valley Massif.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from uphill to the northwest, September, 200...
BETA PHOTO: Taken from uphill to the northwest, September, 200...

Comments on Valley Massif Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Sep 24, 2001
Just a note on approaches for those using Heel & Toe. Things have changed a little bit in the Valley Massif area (and the Reynolds area, for that matter)since the publication of H & T, probably for the better if you go to Vedauwoo seeking solitude.

Viable approaches include: (1) as described above, take the Turtle Rock trail from the parking lot below Walt's Wall and past Holy Saturday; (2) take the Turtle Rock Trail from the east trailhead near the beaver ponds, around the Turtle Rock massif, and across any convenient beaver dam; (3) hike in from the Reynolds Road closure point (old #700D); and last but not least (4) take a good trail that drops down to Valley Massif from the SE corner of Poland Hill. The latter option probably involves the least "swamp-whacking", but is uphill all the way out.

Right now is a great time to hit Valley Massif if you're in the area. As of 9/23, the approach was bug-free and mostly dry, the aspens had turned, and there was nobody around except for the elk.

By Brian Weinstein
Jun 5, 2004
A hidden gem. This rock provides a mystical experience that gives Vedauwoo its character and charm.
By shad O'Neel
Jul 14, 2004
Nice easy and free walk from the Poland Hill parking area.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2007
Approach we used: Take the Turtle rock trail past the beaver ponds. Continue on the excellent trail passing a few ponds and swampy areas. Meet up with a well defined trail going left (marked with a cairn)This will skirt a pond. Follow this to the base of Valley Massif. Pretty much dry the whole way. To approach the actual climbs it is easist to go in from the far left of the formation, finding your way through the inevitable Veduawoo boulders. It is also possible to get to the climbs from the right but you will have to do some canyoneering type moves through a very narrow slot. This is fun as well, and is also required to get back to the base if you top out on routes and walk off.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
Coming out to this formation is well-worth the ~45-minute mellow approach. Gorgeous grasslands and views will bring you (especially on a weekday) to a shade-offering climbing paradise where you may find yourself alone to enough a bevy of moderate classics).

Note that after the main trail passes left around the Walt's/Jurrasic Park/etc. formations, wait until you reach a very obvious trail junction with a hard-right rocky turn option before turning left towards the crag. Though "The Voo" guidebook referencing three "beaver dam" crossings, in July we only crossed mostly-dry marshes here to find the crag.

After the aforementioned left path turn, the trail will be faint but will lead the way if you match it up with the guidebook's area map.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2015
There are now rappel anchors at the top of Best Man and a second set halfway down to the left of Zipper. These can be used to rappel from the popular routes that feed into this area (from Screw to Zipper). A 60m just makes it for both rappels -- tie knots! For the upper rappel with a 60m, stop at a ledge and down-climb 6 ft.

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