REI Community
search
Advanced
The Bunker
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14:59 S 
Apoca-Lips Now! S 
Born on the 4th of July S 
Charlie Don’t Surf S 
First Blood S 
Full Metal Jacket S 
Fury S 
Saigon S 
Smear Hunter, The S 
Trooper S 
Uncommon Valor S 
Valkyrie S 

Valkyrie 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, July 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Hooking and toe-camming out the big capping roof.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another enduro jughaul, Valkyrie would fit in perfectly at Rifle’s Wicked Cave, right between Zulu and Slice of Life. This is a great choice for the aspiring 5.14 climber, with a relatively mellow crux followed by many pumpy, gymnastic moves that can be learned down. There is a bit of off-balance slab groveling at the start, but it gardually gives way to uber steep swinging and hooking between sloping jugs.

Begin from part-way out the upper-left fixed line. Follow a brief slab to a horizontal alcove and the first bolt. Climb awkwardly into the alcove, making sure to take advantage of the no-hands head-jam rest. Exit the alcove, heading up and right, to reach a perched mini-slab. Tiptoe along the slab to an active rest below the crux. The pegmatite band is surmounted with a shouldery reach between opposing gastons. Rock over the bulge to find a great rest—including more opportunities for head-jamming--below the inverted bowl. Pump up the cresting wave, hooking, and toe-camming wildly towards a hanging dihedral. Turn the capping ceiling, squirm into a stem, and work easily up to the anchor.

Location 

This is the next line right of Charlie (the large right-fiacing dihedral), beginning a bit left of the Bottleneck, climbing up and slightly right to the apex of the cave. The two best belay options are the Dirt Ledge, or the flat-ish stance below the Bottleneck.

Protection 

Many bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor, currently all fixed.


Photos of Valkyrie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Racing the pump to the finishing corner.
Racing the pump to the finishing corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-crux during the FA of Valkyrie.
Mid-crux during the FA of Valkyrie.

Comments on Valkyrie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Most people will find this climb to be chossy, super weird, and technical, but I had a really great time on it. It's getting closer to being sent every day and is a blast to learn the subtle techniques that are present in the line. Body position and creativity will send this line!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About