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YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, July 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 15, 2015

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Hooking and toe-camming out the big capping roof.

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Another enduro jughaul, Valkyrie would fit in perfectly at Rifle’s Wicked Cave, right between Zulu and Slice of Life. This is a great choice for the aspiring 5.14 climber, with a relatively mellow crux followed by many pumpy, gymnastic moves that can be learned down. There is a bit of off-balance slab groveling at the start, but it gardually gives way to uber steep swinging and hooking between sloping jugs.

Begin from part-way out the upper-left fixed line. Follow a brief slab to a horizontal alcove and the first bolt. Climb awkwardly into the alcove, making sure to take advantage of the no-hands head-jam rest. Exit the alcove, heading up and right, to reach a perched mini-slab. Tiptoe along the slab to an active rest below the crux. The pegmatite band is surmounted with a shouldery reach between opposing gastons. Rock over the bulge to find a great rest—including more opportunities for head-jamming--below the inverted bowl. Pump up the cresting wave, hooking, and toe-camming wildly towards a hanging dihedral. Turn the capping ceiling, squirm into a stem, and work easily up to the anchor.


This is the next line right of Charlie (the large right-fiacing dihedral), beginning a bit left of the Bottleneck, climbing up and slightly right to the apex of the cave. The two best belay options are the Dirt Ledge, or the flat-ish stance below the Bottleneck.


Many bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor, currently all fixed.

Photos of Valkyrie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Racing the pump to the finishing corner.
Racing the pump to the finishing corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-crux during the FA of Valkyrie.
Mid-crux during the FA of Valkyrie.

Comments on Valkyrie Add Comment
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By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Most people will find this climb to be chossy, super weird, and technical, but I had a really great time on it. It's getting closer to being sent every day and is a blast to learn the subtle techniques that are present in the line. Body position and creativity will send this line!

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