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Valgedur'’s Tooth  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Valgedur'’s Tooth on the right.

Description 

Climb up over big holds to a bulge and thin edge and up to move left to easier climbing and the coal ledge. Find tricky pro near the flaring crack / horn that protrudes from the roof and do wild moves to gain the stance and bolt on Julia Raye’s Journey. From here, continue straight up to the “tooth,” to more bolts, and dynamic climbing to the anchor.

Location 

After dropping down from the Far Left, this is the 1st route you come to. On the left side of the overhanging base, good holds lead right and up to a flake with bolt. Move back left past bolt using flake to arete and up to walk right on the coal-like ledge. Beneath the flaring crack, get in two small, but sinker wires, surmount the wild roof over jugs, traverse left to FP and then up to bolt under tooth. A slightly overhanging bit with bolts past side pulls and hidden incut edges leads up and left onto ramp to steep blocks and anchor.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 small wires for under the roof, use the FP of a sling to girth-hitch thru natural pro after turning the rooof.


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