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Shanahan Crag
Routes Sorted
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Beau! T 
Better Offer T 
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T 
Great Expectations T 
Identity Theft T 
In Broad Daylight T 
Leonine T 
Prune Face T 
South Face T 
Southeast Ridge T 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 
Thieves In the Temple T 
Vague Jug Line T 
When It's Right T 
Unsorted Routes:

Vague Jug Line 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J. Haas, B. Young, 2007.
Season: Faces South.
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Tony B on May 4, 2014

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  • Description 

    This is a reasonably good line with reasonably good protection. It is one of the better protected routes on this face if you take the required gear for it. There does not seem to be a particular crux or runout, but the route is characterized by its lack of prior travel... and has a little lichen.

    Start on the crack system by the upper of the 2 pines coming close to he face, and ride that via mostly good face holds. Round out under a standing, loose flake, and go right and up around it and to the top.

    To descend, move the belay up and right 20' to the S. Face station. A 70m just reaches the ground.

    Location 

    This climb is not far to the climber's right of the S. Face route. There are 2x pine trees present with this line starting upward from the base of the higher of the two. Trace a crack line upwards and slightly right from the base of the upper of these toward a very large flake at mid-route. Go left at the 'death flake' (8'*10'*2') without disturbing it, and continue up to the top to intersect the East Ridge. Belay and then rap, or belay and then continue to the summit via the East Face in a long pitch.

    Protection 

    Standard rack of cams and nuts with doubled from 2-3.5" to sew it up. A cordalette is useful for the belay, as the leader tops out onto the ridge at a large, live juniper tree. The fixed rap station is slightly uphill over a large block on the ridge-line, perhaps 7meters past the belay.


    Comments on Vague Jug Line Add Comment
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    By Bill Farrand
    Nov 29, 2014

    This is a decent climb. I moved right to get around the overhanging flake and then, when I was on top of it, moved left to a narrow crack. I ended up to climber's right of the South Face anchor slings.

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