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Podium of Indecision, The T 
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Wind Tower T 

Vagmarken Buttress 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger & Dave Houser, June 1980
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Mar 11, 2005

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Lee Tomatsu on Vagmarken Buttress. Mar 2015.

Description 

If you're looking for the longest climb on Vagmarken, this is the one. Start just left of the Buttress prow in a crack dihedral the shoots a straight line up the central face of the rock. Midway up you'll find a bolt and then moves slightly right to easier climing to the top. Caution! There is loose rock on this route; especially the large, tempting flake just by the move after the bolt. To descend; scramble up to the top and head right to drop down the right side of the Buttress on some 3rd and 4th class terrain back to your gear.

Protection 

There is one 1/4" buttonhead bolt midway up the route and Pro to 2". No fixed anchors on top but some midsized cams will work for an anchor.


Photos of Vagmarken Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the route but before the bolt.
Midway up the route but before the bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Vagmarken Buttress". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Vagmarken Buttress". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route.  Finishing the day with just e...
Start of the route. Finishing the day with just e...

Comments on Vagmarken Buttress Add Comment
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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 6, 2015

if that rusty buttonhead breaks, which protects the steep crux moves pulling on crispy flakes, the resulting long runout fall would be ugly. walk off, or rap via the bolted anchor at the upper left end of the finishing shoulder, the same one near the topout of Wind Tower

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