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Two Pines Buttress
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Vacillation T,TR 

Vacillation 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,415
Submitted By: Melissa Lohre on Mar 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Eric P

Description 

Climb crack with bulge 10 feet up. Two-thirds of the way up, move right to wide crack to top.

Protection 

Toprope


Photos of Vacillation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike, at the first crux
Mike, at the first crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry pauses to scan for a handhold
Jerry pauses to scan for a handhold

Comments on Vacillation Add Comment
Show which comments
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Or to lead, bring a set of wires, and cams to a #1 camalot. Save the .75 for the top, as you don't really need it before then. Make sure to get your hand sequence right down low and a bomber nut, otherwise into the tree for you! Up high near the topout two ways to finish, the offwith crack direct, or by using "the secret hold" (not going to tell you where if you don't already know) which makes the finish a bit easier.

One of my favorite leads at the Lake!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

lead this climb onsight...took everything i had to pull the crux move ( which i believe is only about 10 or so feet off the deck) in the dl guidebook climb rated as a 5.7 the falcon guide gave it a 7+ which i felt was def more appropriate...
By Erol Altay
Jun 23, 2013

Finish up the left face gives this great climb a sting in the tail at 10a. With super solid gear.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rock is noticeably more slippery than everything else I've done on east bluff- makes it a bit more scary!
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Like Mike said in June, their is still a hornets nest 1/2 way up the route...I learned the hard way on lead today and down climbed the route as fast as possible cussing the whole time.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I saw that thing a couple weeks ago and there was no bees by it, is it buzzing now?!
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

yup! Josh K and I both got nailed multiple times just hours apart.