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Moving out of lower slot.
Though often overlooked (I did for years), this route is enjoyable and fun! A nice 5.9 trad lead. Climb, chimney, and jam varying-width crack through a couple slots to the top. (Arm-bars may be used, but are not mandatory.) Good position(s), nice variety, occasional jugs.
Oh yeah, be sure to "Ride the Rock Horse" near the top!
From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot Stuck in Another Dimension (5.11), an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face . V-Slot (5.9) is the obvious crack IMMEDIATELY LEFT.
Small-Med-Large. Does not require a piece bigger than a #4 Camalot, though you can use a bigger one if you have it. Shuts up and left on the left-facing corner.
BETA PHOTO: V-Slot (5.9), Junkyard Wall.
By Doug Joness
From: logan, ut
Aug 27, 2015
Sweet climb. It climbs way better than it looks. Leave your wide gear on the ground. Biggest piece I used was a #3 c4 and I probably didn't even need that. Make sure you ride the rock horse. Yeeeeeehaw!