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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 9,130
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 24, 2006  with updates from Lauren LittleRedClimbingHood

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (237)
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In the crux.


Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1: Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

It's also possible to continue with a very easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.

from Kurtz : P2 was very easy and fun. You can just fly up. Pulling the overhang on P3 was great fun but 5.8ish. Takes great pro.


Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.

Photos of V-3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky Diamond securely wedged in the notch.
Becky Diamond securely wedged in the notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a cool climb.  Only in the Gunks would a fant...
Such a cool climb. Only in the Gunks would a fant...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of V3
Start of V3
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 of V-3
Rock Climbing Photo: Jennifer Wies in the V on V3
Jennifer Wies in the V on V3
Rock Climbing Photo: Elaine Matthews at the start of the difficulties.
Elaine Matthews at the start of the difficulties.
Rock Climbing Photo: Underneath the notch.
Underneath the notch.

Comments on V-3 Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 11, 2017
By Mike Caruso
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 3, 2009

There's a good nut placement about mid-notch.

It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 4, 2009

This is a great climb. You can make it harder by climbing the right face below the v notch and then traversing over. I probably climbed up and down the right side five times before I committed to getting into the v. Stick your shoulders on one side, feet on the other and just squinch your way up the chimney. You can get a great nut in the back of the chimney, then a couple of more squinchy moves to the pin. Lots of fun.
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Woodbury, MN
Apr 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow, the V is awesome. For us the crux is getting up to get your shoulder in the groove. After that it's lots of fun. Gold and red c4's are helpful right under the groove.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 10, 2012

I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb.
By Kurtz
Jun 27, 2013

Did all three pitches. P1 seemed easier than the other comments would suggest. Good pro. P3 is very short and makes rapping off a pain since there is no rapp station. We bushwhacked left and down (30 yards?) until we found a tree with slings. We encountered a rock that made eerie "breathing" noises. There was no wind. Could not figure out what caused the noise. Spooky!
By Gunkiemike
May 18, 2014

Just FYI - a climber prying out a stuck nut today broke off part (a small part) of the two-handed jug you use to pull into the V. It's not any harder now, just a liitle different. And the broken edge may be a bit harsh on the hands until it gets a lot more traffic.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anyone ever go out right as you enter the V? I moved up in the slot then stepped out to the ledge on the right. Pondered moving back in to the V-slot but decided to climb the steep slab/arête instead. Heady, but fun.
By Stvbrsn
Jul 14, 2016

Andy W: Yep! I made that mistake when I onsighted the route about 20 years ago. I was desperate for rest, so I headed up right to that inviting ledge stance. Then looked up and saw a steep, licheny (at that time) blank face that looked about 5.9ish. Combined with the fact that I was NOT in the v-shaped chimney, it was obvious I was offroute. I Made the opposite choice from you, though! I wanted to regain the chimney, so I did a true "uber-fall" move and, with feet planted on the leftmost edge of the ledge, I leaned out with both hands and made the calculated "fall" of faith across to the far side of the v-notch. It worked! I didn't fall, and I finished in the chimney. In retrospect, having now climbed V3 more than two dozen times, I never did it that way again. And I probably would never recommend doing it that way deliberately. But it was fun and adventurous, and certainly a unique approach!
By Catalana
Oct 9, 2016

Fun and makes you think, I don't think it is actually that difficult. Once you are in the V, just think like a slug.
By Ryan M Moore
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 11, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun first pitch, gear wasn't as good as I would have liked in the beginning of the pitch, falls in line with the gray Dick PG rating. The V however was very easy to protect exceptionally well. Take some time to chill in the V and look down when you do this route.
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Jun 21, 2017

One of the neatest pitches of any grade I have ever done!
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Jul 27, 2017

Led the first pitch for the first time yesterday, and this is now one of my favorite One pitch climbs! Feels on the softer side of 5.7, maybe even more like 5.6+.

There's one section that's a bit runout but easy climbing, but as someone mentioned the crux protects exceptionally well (you can even thread a nut wire-first for absolutely bomber pro), and lots of solid gear overall.

Beta Alert: When you first get into the V there's no pro, but there's a nice rest and it's easy climbing at this point if you're comfortable stemming, and you soon reach a very solid piton. There are new bolts & chains at the top (but don't be a dick and hog the route for top roping..)
By mnjsan
Jul 28, 2017

There is most definitely gear in the V and it is very solid. In fact GunkieMike describes the gear earlier in this comment section.
By Daniel Kaye
From: Boston, ma
Jul 31, 2017

I enjoyed all three pitches, but the rappelling setup was not ideal. Next time I'd probably walk along the top of the cliff and rap off something else if that's possible.

Found the nut in the notch, seems ok, I wouldn't say textbook though - kinda shallow and bumpy. Maybe depends on the nuts you have? But the pro was so good just below the notch, and the fall so clean, that it didn't seem bad. Exciting though.

I also through p2 was enjoyable and way less dirty then expected, good for my partner who is a beginner leader (I hear on a not-dry day it's a lot worse?). And I actually found the p3 roof easier than the notch and other roofs on easier-graded routes I'd done that day. Good pro too.

Also, reminded me of Know Ethics at Rumney, which I did the week before.
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I am kind of divided on my difficulty rating for this. Once you figure out the beta for the V, actually executing the moves is not particularly strenuous, maybe 5.6. But actually figuring it out on the fly would be harder than that.

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