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5b. Summit Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gusty Prow (Trooper Traverse extension...), The T,S 
Perfect Weather T,S 
Seams Like Lightning T,S 
Utterly Thin T,S 
Waves of Thunder T,S 

Utterly Thin 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, September '11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Sep 12, 2012

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Description 

"Utterly Thin" climbs the cracks, seams and face features between Seams Like Lightnin' and Waves of Thunder. Some thin gear is used for the 1st half of the pitch, followed by bolts up through the steep, thin face crux. Exciting!

Protection 

Thin gear and bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor.


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By Justin Talbot
Jun 16, 2016

I lead this yesterday, and it was quite fun. The crimps on the crux bulge were a bit licheny, and I brushed them while lowering down after taking pictures of Josh Alford climbing Waves of Thunder. The crack getting to the bolts is probably 5.7 or 5.8, then the climbing gets steadily harder with three or four crimp moves to get over the bulge.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2016

Sweet, Justin! As you could probably tell, we hadn't been back since 1st bolting this line a few years back. It was late in the evening, and we didn't have the time to finish the job.... You are probably the only person to ever lead this line. I'm really glad you got on it! Were you able to free all the moves???!!! What did you think the rating should be? I remember some wild, balancy, thumb undercling to the steep bulge with not-so-positive diagonalling finger rails....

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