REI Community
White House Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
*69 T,TR 
Behind the Times T 
Bower's Crack T 
Chemical Wire T 
Garfield Goes To Washington T 
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 
Grounds for Divorce T 
Jingoist, The T 
Junta Crack T 
Political Affair T 
Political Correctness T 
Political Division T 
Political Prowness T 
Slant Crack T 
Smear Campaign T 
Susi's Garden T 
Swamp Donkey T 
Tap and Die T,TR 
Utter Butter on a Rope T 
Wife Sentence T 
Unsorted Routes:

Utter Butter on a Rope 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Archbold/Vernon Phinney 89'
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: ERolls on Jul 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Check NPS for Closures


Vernon Phinney's book says this is 3 pitches and 5.9+ near the top. IMO trying to complete this climb as written in the book is difficult to understand. Start on P1 of Political Prowess following a right to left hand crack. Rig the second piece of pro on a quickdraw as a runner can fall into the crack and cause nasty drag. Gain the top of the flake then continue straight up a smaller crack/seam protecting with smaller gear. This will top out at the belay for P2 of Political Prowess. DO NOT belay here...instead traverse 30ft left to a gully where you'll find a verticle crack on the left where you can build a hanging belay to eyeball the entire second pitch. Climb the wall following a series of criss crossing crack/seams exactly half a 60 meter rope length to a slender pyramid horn. Here you must decide to belay again or bail(recommended) After this point rock quality degrades from excellent/very good to crap. (lichen and auto sized flakes destined for the talus heap) If you do continue straight up 5.9 you'll gain a 1.5ft ledge to belay for the last pitch. All climbing up to pyramid horn is fun, well protected and nothing harder than 5.8. The crux is the 2 rope rap.(rope eating flakes) Rap only to the first hanging belay then climb up and left where you have several options for the last rap to the ground.


The start is P1 of Political Prowess. Directly behind Read my Clips. Five minutes maybe from the road


S,M,L stoppers, hexes and cams to #3 camalot
Plenty'O leaver webbing
No bolts or anchors.

Comments on Utter Butter on a Rope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Dupont
Sep 25, 2008

Consider finishing the climb. The top was most certainly not chossy, the flake just after the horn was a touch hollow but solid and easy climbing. The final section is certainly the crux of the route. Chossy? No. Loose? No. Protectable? Very, solid nut placements in the back of the flare. Strenuous? Ohhhhhhh yeah! Big bros needed? No.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About