Another quality Logan Canyon crag with some gems and other decent climbs worthy of mentioning. North side of the road just past Rodent Ranch. Sunny in morning, shady in evening. Not often visited.
Park 10.9 miles up Logan Canyon,.5 miles past mile marker 472, in one of the two dirt pullouts in that area. Find the faint trail that heads up the steep embankment to the crag.
Climbing Season For the Logan area.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Utopia
Swedish Finger Yams 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Utopia
The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 22, 2010
As far as I can tell, the 3 star 10d in the NU climbing book called, "Swedish Finger Yams" is nonexistent. Anyone with info. please comment.
By Brian Hestetune
From: Logan, UT
Feb 12, 2012
I think Swedish Finger Yams is a variation of Swedish Finger Massage. At the top, go direct instead of stepping around.
From: St. George, Utah
Aug 9, 2012
According to Deb, Swedish Finger Yams is the correct name of the route and it's intent is to head straight up(a little left) at 10d.
SFM isn't a correct route, unless it's the break right variation. Which I don't know who would have named.