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Utopia Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 1,559
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010
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Description 

Another quality Logan Canyon crag with some gems and other decent climbs worthy of mentioning. North side of the road just past Rodent Ranch. Sunny in morning, shady in evening. Not often visited.

Getting There 

Park 10.9 miles up Logan Canyon,.5 miles past mile marker 472, in one of the two dirt pullouts in that area. Find the faint trail that heads up the steep embankment to the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Logan area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Utopia
Rock Climbing Photo: Route line- Sunhat Memo

Sunhat Memo 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Utopia
Very similar to Swedish Finger Yams. Shares 1st couple of bolts with it and continues up the left line of bolts to chains slightly lower then SFY. Very consistent climbing. Sharp rock!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Utopia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 22, 2010
As far as I can tell, the 3 star 10d in the NU climbing book called, "Swedish Finger Yams" is nonexistent. Anyone with info. please comment.
By Brian Hestetune
From: Logan, UT
Feb 12, 2012
I think Swedish Finger Yams is a variation of Swedish Finger Massage. At the top, go direct instead of stepping around.
By scottso
From: St. George, Utah
Aug 9, 2012
According to Deb, Swedish Finger Yams is the correct name of the route and it's intent is to head straight up(a little left) at 10d.

SFM isn't a correct route, unless it's the break right variation. Which I don't know who would have named.

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