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Slab City (Right)
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Chaste but Tasty S 
Groove Factor S 
Juggernaut S 
Lovely Lady S 
Pity Committee S 
Pleasure Dome S 
Scrawny, not Brawny S 
Utopia S 
White Heat S 
White Light S 


YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 984
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jan 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the route during Golden Hour.

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Scramble to the bottom of the large left-facing flake.

Follow the flake, 3 bolts on the top side of the flake, until it is possible to step right onto the face below the 4th bolt. Don't hang around here too long before committing to a balancy sequence of moves that will allow you to clip the 5th bolt.

After you clip the 5th bolt quickly lieback the vertical seam up to the anchors.


Located at the right side of Slab City.


6 bolts, double ring anchor

Photos of Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the second crack
On the second crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the 4th bolt, and the crux, of Utopia (...
Just below the 4th bolt, and the crux, of Utopia (...

Comments on Utopia Add Comment
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By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Interesting and sometimes strenuous lie-backing up the left side of the huge flake lead the the crux just past the 4th bolt. There are several ways to do this - climb directly above the bolt and do a balancy mantel or stay left and utilize the "bird perch" block and the crack before stemming out right above the bolt. The route concludes with a classic lieback flake on a vertical wall.

It's possible to extend this route by clipping the anchor and then heading up and left, via three more bolts, to join the anchors for Pity Committee (5.11a); the difficulty is still the same.
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The moves to the 5th bolt are a bit scary since you're a ways above #4. I think this route is top notch, and a rare liebacking gem at the quarry.
By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
Jun 29, 2009

If you like liebacking try the one next door Pity Committee for more excitement.
By wizard Lee
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Loved this route. Only gets 3 stars in the guidebook. I though it was 5 stars. Trad style. In fact you might be able to lead it on gear. Beta spoiler: near the top, don't go right into the corner where there is a chalked hold. Stay on the face otherwise you'll miss a great crux move.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Lead the whole route on gear except clipping the last two bolts since there was no placement to be had. such a good climb. sucks that it was bolted (especially the bottom section). good hand jams with good .75 for first piece
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this route a few more times since last post. Definitely lead this route on gear, it's so much more fun that way. It's also way more committing on the "lie back" section on the face on gear instead of clipping the bolts on the far right of it. Bring runners to extend the bottom pieces. Save 2-3 draws for the last section + your anchors.

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