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Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
Ballad of Bricks 
Beck Beck TR 
Cockroach Slip 
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 
Drunken Crack T,TR 
Haven't A Clue S,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 
Life During Wartime T,TR 
Lion of Zion, The T 
Little Creatures T 
Little Critters T 
Little Things S 
On the Skids S 
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 
Sandpaper Cloud 
Slinga Tree T,TR 
Stun the Hun 
Take Me To The River S,TR 
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 
Unforgiven S,TR 
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

Cross-Eyed and Painless 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Page Views: 5,649
Submitted By: C H on Jul 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Jesse Crandall on Cross-Eyed and Painless in Big C...


Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.


8 bolts, chains.

Photos of Cross-Eyed and Painless Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The sharp lower double fall line arete
The sharp lower double fall line arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out the first bouldery section.
Topping out the first bouldery section.

Comments on Cross-Eyed and Painless Add Comment
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By Donovan Allen
From: Subaru
Mar 14, 2017

I'm not sure if anyone's been on this recently. It was ticked pretty fresh, anyway the cable draw on the 2nd to last bolt is missing it's biner, and nearly all the bolts have quick links on them. I was going to go ahead and remove the quick links and put a fresh biner on the cable. The quick links are a nuisance to maneuver around. Not sure if the links once contained fixed gear? Hopefully no one minds?
By Dan Goodman
Mar 16, 2017

Hey Donovan,

Those quicklinks did have fixed gear, are you saying that they were just the quicklinks with no dogbones or carabiner?

I installed those a couple of seasons back with fixed gear on everything with the intent to recheck everything at the beginning of the season, bummer to hear that someone went to the trouble of taking everything without removing the quicklinks.

By tenesmus
Jul 12, 2009

Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 13, 2009

Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!!
By Bart Ridd
From: SLC, UT
Nov 6, 2010

Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly.
By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Jun 28, 2011

Sep 9, 2011

First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle).
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 19, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Awesome route with varied movement. Not greasy, just get on it in good conditions. Solid for the grade. Quality diminished somewhat by the rest ledge, but I think the rock and nature of the climbing still make it one of the best around. Bring your PE for the RP crux up high!

Anyone have info on the bolted line on the right side of the arete?
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 16, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Love arêtes, stream side and almost no hike. This is an excellent route!

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