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The Optimator

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate T,TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Optimator Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0758, -109.5948 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,914
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Sep 24, 2002
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Painting the sunset drenched sandstone walls, afte...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.


Getting There 

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.7 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',12],['5.11',13],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Optimator

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Optimator:
Charlie's Pillar   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lady Pillar   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 110'   
Ditch 'em   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Neat   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Hayutake   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Long Island Iced Ted   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Casey's Route   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mudslide   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Sardikar   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Soul Fire   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jews On Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Jive Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Road Soda   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Annunaki   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kitchen Sink   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Double Bock   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Two Scoops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 65'   
Pat's Blue Ribbon   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Optimator   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Optimator

Featured Route For The Optimator
Rock Climbing Photo: at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...

Neat 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Utah : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator
This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tip...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Optimator Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: wall as seen from the parking area.  the obvious r...
BETA PHOTO: wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious r...

Comments on The Optimator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005
At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005
Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope!
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009
Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 11, 2009
Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack.
By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 15, 2010
This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 3, 2010
Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours.
By GlobeShralper Appell
Apr 19, 2011
!!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

FYI
I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!
tappell@gmail.com

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