Pistol Whipped Rock Climbing
Clint and Annie on the approach to Pistol Whipped
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A good area with a nice variety of climbs. Although somewhat remote, the climbing quality, concentration, and difficulty insures that this areas still sees a good amount of traffic. Most climbs reside in the 10+ range with a few 5.11 classics.
The buttress faces west and as a result gets good sun later in the day. With proper timing it's a good choice on both hot or cold days.
From the Hwy 211/Beef Basin road junction head south several miles until you encounter a fence and cattle guard. A few hundred yards past this (the *second* road on the left) look for a well-maintained road that angles back to the northeast.
Take this road through an active creek (good 2WD's can make it) past the cottonwoods to another road junction. Turn right and go about a mile until you are directly under the point of the buttress where it starts to jut back east. Pull off the road and park. Road improvements in the past several years have trivialized the drive and taken a large chunk off the approach.
Find a cairned trail that follows a shallow wash (please take a second to find it!) and then up the talus to the base. From here, climbs fan out to either side, but take a topo or a knowledgable friend as very few plaques exist.
Weather station 13.1 miles from here
44 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Pistol Whipped
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pistol Whipped
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pistol Whipped:
Sig Sauer 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Fairy Tales 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Pistol Whipped
Pistol Whipped 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Utah
: Moab Area
: ... : Pistol Whipped
Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!Rap: A double rope rap from the to...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
Pistol Whipped wall from near parking area
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2009
As of November 09, a wash has taken out part of the road half way between the cottonwoods and the parking area. A route has been made through the washout and it is passable in a high clearance vehicle with 2WD. Due to the steepness of the drop in and out of the wash, and the short distance, a low clearance or vehicle with a long wheelbase might auger its front end into the opposite bank. Just a heads up since this spot may get worse in the future.
By Ty Tyler
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 24, 2015
As of March 21, 2015 there is a NEW approach trail to Pistol Whipped Wall. The Rocky Mountain Field Institute, Access Fund and Front Range Climbing Stewards wrapped up the new trail construction and closure of the old trail. The BLM has constructed a parking lot for climbers to use.
The new trail is located 1/4 mile beyond the old parking lot/trail. There is a cleared parking lot on the right side of the road. The new trail heads toward the crag from a lone juniper tree & cairn across the road. This new trail meanders up the rocky slopes above making use of more than 500 rock steps along the way. Please be sure to stay on this new trail to prevent plant & soil damage.
Please use this trail and allow the old one to recover.
By Matt Pickren
Nov 2, 2016
Does anyone have beta on new route that starts 1 foot right of "Have a Heart Donna" on Pistol Whipped's left side? FA? Name? It's a great route starting with tight rings to thin hands, a short crack switch left and finishing with thinning hands to fingers. Appeared very new and a bit sandy. About 60' long and probably .12a. A blank plaque was perched at the start. Thanks in advance.