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Routes in Castleton Tower
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Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Inside T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Other Options V1 5 |
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North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sacred Ground T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | webster, hopkins, coyne |
| Page Views: | 15,405 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Oct 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010.
Details
Utah Open Lands utahopenlands.org owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Description
This climb can be viewed as a major variation to Kor-Ingalls and features lots of wide climbing and a crux reminiscent of Poseiden Adventure on Lighthouse tower.
Start as for Kor-Ingalls.
P1. Climb about 150' up KI. At this point, 20-30' of easy scrambling past a major rap anchor, KI continues to angle rightwards up the corner while Black Sun go straight up a wide crack system. From the point where the routes diverge, you will see a ledge about 80' upon the left side of the BS crack system.
P2. 5.8ish, 80'. Wide crack climbing with some face holds and a variety of gear. Belay on the ledge.
P3. 5.10, ~90'. Continue up the crack system. About 20' up you hit a difficult section that can eat up your big gear.This quicly turns into hands ands gets you to a stance at the base of the business, a 30' flare chimney with an offwidth crack in the back. If you've squandered your 4.5 Camalot already, go back down and get it, because it's the essential piece through this entire section. This section succumbs to left side in "can opener technique" -- squeeze chimney technique with the inside part of the body, knee/heel with the outside leg. A couple of face holds facilliate the process. The 4.5 can be easily walked along to maintain peace of mind. The crack widens and gets easier in the last ten feet. A 5 Camalot might protect this section which is too wide for the 4.5 and too flared for a decent Big Bro placement. At the top of the flare, tunnel behind a chockstone and stand up on a good belay ledge. The last few feet of the flare and the tunnel move can be avoided by going over the chockstone; this alternative looked harder and a lot hairier to me.
P4. 5.8 ~80'. Head up a fist crack for 15'. Squirm throughsome blocks and arrive at a stance (optional belay). BS continues straight up through more 5.8 wide or you can traverse right to the standard KI face finish.
Start as for Kor-Ingalls.
P1. Climb about 150' up KI. At this point, 20-30' of easy scrambling past a major rap anchor, KI continues to angle rightwards up the corner while Black Sun go straight up a wide crack system. From the point where the routes diverge, you will see a ledge about 80' upon the left side of the BS crack system.
P2. 5.8ish, 80'. Wide crack climbing with some face holds and a variety of gear. Belay on the ledge.
P3. 5.10, ~90'. Continue up the crack system. About 20' up you hit a difficult section that can eat up your big gear.This quicly turns into hands ands gets you to a stance at the base of the business, a 30' flare chimney with an offwidth crack in the back. If you've squandered your 4.5 Camalot already, go back down and get it, because it's the essential piece through this entire section. This section succumbs to left side in "can opener technique" -- squeeze chimney technique with the inside part of the body, knee/heel with the outside leg. A couple of face holds facilliate the process. The 4.5 can be easily walked along to maintain peace of mind. The crack widens and gets easier in the last ten feet. A 5 Camalot might protect this section which is too wide for the 4.5 and too flared for a decent Big Bro placement. At the top of the flare, tunnel behind a chockstone and stand up on a good belay ledge. The last few feet of the flare and the tunnel move can be avoided by going over the chockstone; this alternative looked harder and a lot hairier to me.
P4. 5.8 ~80'. Head up a fist crack for 15'. Squirm throughsome blocks and arrive at a stance (optional belay). BS continues straight up through more 5.8 wide or you can traverse right to the standard KI face finish.
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