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Utah Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.6566, -111.7697 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
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Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Description 

Welcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

10,862 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',950],['3 Stars',4191],['2 Stars',3985],['1 Star',1482],['Bomb',72]
['<=5.6',492],['5.7',518],['5.8',804],['5.9',1142],['5.10',2554],['5.11',1979],['5.12',1050],['5.13',248],['>=5.14',23],['',0],['<=V1',505],['V2-3',269],['V4-5',394],['V6-7',237],['V8-9',110],['V10-11',46],['V12-13',7],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Utah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utah:
Angel of Death   A3     Aid, 80'   San Rafael Swell - South : Long Dong Silver Area
Regular Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   191 South : Looking Glass Rock
The West Slabs   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1660'   Mount Olympus : The West Slabs
Led by Sheep   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 800'   East Side : Aries Butte
Tachycardia   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Prodigal Sun   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Aid, 9 pitches, 900'   Zion National Park : Angel's Landing
North Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Generic Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Jah Man   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Fine Jade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Squawstruck   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 22 pitches, 1900'   Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   Island In The Sky : Moses
Namaste   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utah

Featured Route For Utah
Rock Climbing Photo: Surfboard Sit.

Surfboard Sit Start V4 6B  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : 5 Mile Boulders
Pull up onto the arete from a sitting position using a low right hand crimper and a far left edge - make a big move out right to a decent sidepull (left toe hooking helps), shuffle the feet and slap around until you gain the starting position for Surfboard. Finish as usual. Note: you might be able to go straight up, but the right sidepull makes the problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Utah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...
Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Cathedral.  It is Hooooge. Check out the th...
Golden Cathedral. It is Hooooge. Check out the th...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...
This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael ...
P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. Photo by Blitzo...
Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: West Desert target practice for locals.
West Desert target practice for locals.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce Canyon National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Bryce Canyon National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Arch-Arches N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Double Arch-Arches N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
BETA PHOTO: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspens-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Aspens-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: More High Spur.
More High Spur.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...
Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! Photo by Blitzo.
Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. Photo by Blitzo.
Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...
High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...
Bryce Canyon, Utah. Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Summer Rainbow near Henrieville Garfield County
Summer Rainbow near Henrieville Garfield County
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Green River Towers...
Another view of Green River Towers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Utah
Central Utah
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the best walls un Utah. the Namaste wall in...
one of the best walls un Utah. the Namaste wall in...

Show All 56 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Utah Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008
From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018. Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com
By Fred Knapp
Mar 10, 2009
Everyone thinking of visiting the canyon country should first read DESERT TOWERS: Fat Cat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett. The book is now (10-1-10) on the shelves at fine mountain shops and available at sharpendbooks.com. It is the quintessential coffee table book of the history of desert tower climbing.
By Roy Suggett
Sep 9, 2010
Just outside the Bryce Canyon National Park area there is a new climbing area known as "The Jungle on the Aquarius Plateau." Check it out for great routes and lots of possibilities for more. As of March. 1st, 2017, there are 166+ routes up ranging from 6s to 13s with something in each range. We could use some help putting up more! Especially with 12s an up. There are some really good hard lines that have anchors above them. I am reluctant to bolt what I can no longer climb. So... calling all hard asses!
By calvino
From: Marblemount, WA
Oct 29, 2011
Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these remote trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it.

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