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Utah
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Utah Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.6566, -111.7697 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,596,018
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
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Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Description 

Welcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

10,504 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',926],['3 Stars',4077],['2 Stars',3844],['1 Star',1406],['Bomb',70]
['<=5.6',463],['5.7',509],['5.8',785],['5.9',1122],['5.10',2506],['5.11',1926],['5.12',1019],['5.13',245],['>=5.14',23],['',0],['<=V1',228],['V2-3',763],['V4-5',352],['V6-7',220],['V8-9',101],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',50],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Utah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utah:
Steorts' Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
North Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Flakes of Wrath   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Potash Road : Wall Street
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Blue Sun   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Generic Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Jah Man   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Goodro's Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Fine Jade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
Scarface   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utah

Featured Route For Utah
Rock Climbing Photo: Sewing star stumping...

Stump the Stars 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Perla's Ridge and Environs
Despite it being short with slightly dirty rock, I believe this has got to be one of the most fun crack climbs around. Though, to be sure, I haven't done that many of the local crack climbs harder than 11a. If more people climbed it, the rock would clean up. Originally, I thought this was stout for the grade. But, rethinking it, the rating probably is spot on compared to routes like Coyne Crack and S-Crack's third pitch crack. The difference, which is what makes this route awesome, is that it...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Utah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...
Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...
This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Cathedral.  It is Hooooge. Check out the th...
Golden Cathedral. It is Hooooge. Check out the th...
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael ...
P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. Photo by Blitzo...
Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: West Desert target practice for locals.
West Desert target practice for locals.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce Canyon National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Bryce Canyon National Park. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Arch-Arches N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Double Arch-Arches N.P. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
BETA PHOTO: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspens-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Aspens-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: More High Spur.
More High Spur.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! Photo by Blitzo.
Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. Photo by Blitzo.
Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...
High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...
Bryce Canyon, Utah. Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...
Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summer Rainbow near Henrieville Garfield County
Summer Rainbow near Henrieville Garfield County
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Green River Towers...
Another view of Green River Towers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Utah
Central Utah
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the best walls un Utah. the Namaste wall in...
one of the best walls un Utah. the Namaste wall in...

Show All 56 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Utah Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008
From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018. Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com
By Fred Knapp
Mar 10, 2009
Everyone thinking of visiting the canyon country should first read DESERT TOWERS: Fat Cat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett. The book is now (10-1-10) on the shelves at fine mountain shops and available at sharpendbooks.com. It is the quintessential coffee table book of the history of desert tower climbing.
By Roy Suggett
Sep 9, 2010
Just outside the Bryce Canyon National Park area there is a new climbing area known as "The Jungle on the Aquarius Plateau." Check it out for great routes and lots of possibilities for more. As of Sep. 1st, 2015, there are 156+ routes up ranging from 6s to 13s with something in each range. We could use some help putting up more! Especially with 12s an up. There are some really good hard lines that have anchors above them. I am reluctant to bolt what I can no longer climb. So... calling all hard asses!
By Calvino
From: Marblemount, WA
Oct 29, 2011
Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these remote trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it.