BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area Shows three climbs ...
There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Utah Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utah Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Apex 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Utah Wall
The route is directly to the left of Shotgun beginning it follows the discontinuous cracks and corner angling to the left and pulls the roof continuing to the right towards the anchors for Shotgun. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when pulling the roof. The protection is a little tricky above the roof. A standard rack works fine the largest piece I used was a #3 C4. This route is a must do in Ogden Canyon. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
From: santa clara, utah
Apr 20, 2010
As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.
The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'