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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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Feb 15, 2013
Nothin' says current conditions like great shots of ice climbing.

Thanks, keep 'em coming!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,405 points
Feb 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch 2/17/13
Second pitch 2/17/13

2nd pitch.

Frozen assets in through 5 pitches and then some snow. A bit thin on the puctured pitch was aired out stubbies and 13's. Ice and gear got better higher up.
The pitch described as ice in a corner was dry and looked to be hard mixed climbing with poor to no gear. The last WI5 pitch wasn't in.
cdec
From SLC, UT
Joined Jan 3, 2007
155 points
Feb 19, 2013
Climbed Scottish Gully yesterday evening. First pitch is in, no aid necessary to get into the gully. The ice peeters out on the second pitch, so it's adventurous mixed climbing to a tree below a roof about 45 m from the pitch 1 belay (on the face right of the gully). Mini-mixed pitch out right for the finish (avoids the hanging death blocks above). Micah Lewkowitz
From Ridgway, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
0 points
Feb 19, 2013
maple ice this past weekend kicked ass.
conditions are excellent.
hell, i was able to pull off the rare feat of sinking in my lonely 22cm (v-threader) to the hilt after trundling my final 13cm.
i also eyeballed a coupla lines that i've never noticed before and that are not documented in jason stevens guidebook.
sorry no pics available. yeah i know, no pics = invalid post...
bay
Joined Apr 9, 2007
20 points
Feb 19, 2013
I found a quickdraw at the top of Skidders (between Running Man and Yellow Rapture) in Maple Canyon while wrapping up the day on Saturday. If this is yours, please identify the color/brand and I'll get it back to you. Cheers. Micah Lewkowitz
From Ridgway, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
0 points
Feb 19, 2013
Took a Strawberry Road tour on Sunday; here's what I found...

Rock Climbing Photo: Yes it's in. Yes it's on private property. What a ...
Yes it's in. Yes it's on private property. What a tease...


Rock Climbing Photo: Another tease on private property, and not as fat ...
Another tease on private property, and not as fat as last year; probably mixed...


Rock Climbing Photo: Public reclamation land I believe. There may be 2 ...
Public reclamation land I believe. There may be 2 other hidden pillars, and the upper pitches look fat...


Rock Climbing Photo: Public reclamation land I believe. A low angle sno...
Public reclamation land I believe. A low angle snow gully approach to a pitch of ice, and another pitch further back along the wall.


Click and zoom on the pics for details. I forget the given names, so someone who does can fill that in. First two (on private property) are east of Strawberry Pinnacles, and 2nd two are west. Didn't get to the Timber Canyon Rd junction, where lies another nice climb or two...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
0 points
Feb 19, 2013
Ron, have you or anyone else approached the private landowners about ice climbing on their land? Just curious if it was already a moot point or not. Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,123 points
Feb 19, 2013
RonB wrote:
First two (on private property) are east of Strawberry Pinnacles, and 2nd two are west. Didn't get to the Timber Canyon Rd junction, where lies another nice climb or two...


Too funny...I've climbed all except the second picture one you call "probably mixed". 10+ years ago or so.

First one is Spring Canyon Falls? Access hinky.

Second one, dunno. Someone climbed it a fair bit ago.

Third is Dead Deer Falls? Usually in from one to three pitches. I've climbed it a number of times in good to poor conditions. Crux may be crossing the creek.

Fourth...can't recall what we called it. V thread get off. If there isn't good snow to access the base, its a bit of a PIA to get to. Fun though. Looks big and in good shape right now.

Thanks for the updates!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,405 points
Feb 19, 2013
Climbed in Joe's on Monday. The first two pitches of CCC falls were great. The last pitch has some fracturing. Still decent ice on part of the curtain, but a lot of it was pretty beat.

Fracture
Rock Climbing Photo: Fracturing on CCC Falls
Fracturing on CCC Falls


Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 CCC Falls
Pitch 3 CCC Falls
Dave R.
Joined Jun 14, 2010
0 points
Feb 20, 2013
Ron did you happen to look for excalibur while in strawberry pinnicles? mountainproject.com/v/10746898... (picture from last year) MoonMountainMan
From Bellingham, WA
Joined Feb 9, 2012
195 points
Feb 20, 2013
Mooner wrote:
Ron did you happen to look for excalibur while in strawberry pinnicles? mountainproject.com/v/10746898... (picture from last year)


Not sure from your pic. I thought either the 1st or 2nd pic I posted was called "Excalibur", according to what I was told last year. Where from the pinnacles is it located?
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
0 points
Feb 20, 2013
RonB wrote:
Not sure from your pic. I thought either the 1st or 2nd pic I posted was called "Excalibur", according to what I was told last year. Where from the pinnacles is it located?


Just over a half mile up Timber Canyon in an alcove on the left. Bottom of Jensen Canyon.

Go "Thor"! Ha ha...
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,405 points
Feb 21, 2013
Brian in SLC wrote:
Just over a half mile up Timber Canyon in an alcove on the left. Bottom of Jensen Canyon. Go "Thor"! Ha ha...


Right, I didn't go that far down the road, but I suspect it is in by the looks of the other climbs. If you want to check it out on Saturday, I'm free at the moment. Email me through my MP account...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
0 points
Feb 21, 2013
Anyone interested in going out on a day mission tomorrow (2/21)? Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,123 points
Feb 23, 2013
In the new Liberty Mountain catalogue there are three climbs in UT that I am not familiar with, can you guys/gals help me find out (specifically where) more about them:
-Raven Falls
-Rough Neck
-The Least Complicate

Also, I saw some of the Strawberry pictures. Where is Strawberry Road?

In Advance, Thanks.
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
45 points
Feb 23, 2013
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
In the new Liberty Mountain catalogue there are three climbs in UT that I am not familiar with, can you guys/gals help me find out (specifically where) more about them: -Raven Falls -Rough Neck -The Least Complicate Also, I saw some of the Strawberry pictures. Where is Strawberry Road? In Advance, Thanks.


The Least Complicated, aka TLC, is located up Spanish Fork Canyon, Hwy 6, in the Red Narrows section, almost directly across from the large cave on the north side of the canyon. TLC and it's sister climb on the left, are located at the back of a slot canyon on the south side. Unless things have changed since I last climbed them, access is by crossing the stream, then hiking up above them from down-canyon, and then rappelling into them. Both are very fun climbs when they are in.
Doug Coats
Joined Jun 10, 2010
0 points
Feb 24, 2013
Went down to Santaquin earlier this week, ice was pretty good.

Rock Climbing Photo: Angel of Fear 2/18/13
Angel of Fear 2/18/13



Rock Climbing Photo: Squash Head 2/18/13 - Pretty Fat
Squash Head 2/18/13 - Pretty Fat



Rock Climbing Photo: Back Off 2/18/13 - Highway of ice...
Back Off 2/18/13 - Highway of ice...
Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Joined Sep 12, 2007
365 points
Feb 24, 2013
Cool Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
60 points
Feb 24, 2013
The Real Mark Evans wrote:
Went down to Santaquin earlier this week, ice was pretty good.


And I'm leaving Tuesday! It's tempting enough to cancel my flight and stay another week...By the way, who's the impostor 'Mark Evans' :')
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
0 points
Feb 25, 2013
Above Moab, on Friday, Pleiades had interesting conditions. Deep snow in the creekbed on the approach. First drop had some ice. Second was bone dry. We looked down to the third but could just see snow. Strange. That's as far as we ventured.

Maple was still hanging in strong last Thursday.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,405 points
Feb 25, 2013
+1

Spent this weekend in Maple. Normally I'd specifically list routes and conditions, but it would be a Victorian romance novel at this point. I'll just make a couple of general notes:

Everything is in, minus a couple of mixed routes that are less-than-healthy.

The Box, both upper and lower, is just astonishing. Maple Syrup is especially cool, with a cave/curtain exit at the top. Maple Corners is in, although with a testy mixed step across from the right column to the left curtain.

Frankenchrist is getting done like it was in Vail.

Tread lightly on the last twenty feet of Cobble Cruncher. It's hollow and separated from wall, but not too bad.

All the Main Canyon road routes are just killer fun.

And keeping with the "no-photos posts are illegitimate" edict, here's a couple:


Rock Climbing Photo: Cobble Cruncher
Cobble Cruncher



Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown WI3, Upper Box.
Unknown WI3, Upper Box.



Rock Climbing Photo: Road routes.
Road routes.
Loweball
Joined Jun 16, 2005
60 points
Feb 25, 2013
My needs me some more Maple Canyon Photos. kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
5 points
Feb 25, 2013
Okay, Kevin. Here's your ice fetish porn allotment:
Rock Climbing Photo: Get Whacked
Get Whacked


Rock Climbing Photo: Maple Syrup.  Maple Moon beyond.
Maple Syrup. Maple Moon beyond.


Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Plum
Golden Plum


Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown, Upper Box.
Unknown, Upper Box.


Rock Climbing Photo: The Dagger.
The Dagger.


Rock Climbing Photo: Running Man.
Running Man.
Loweball
Joined Jun 16, 2005
60 points
Feb 25, 2013
Doug Coats wrote:
The Least Complicated, aka TLC, is located up Spanish Fork Canyon, Hwy 6, in the Red Narrows section, almost directly across from the large cave on the north side of the canyon. TLC and it's sister climb on the left, are located at the back of a slot canyon on the south side. Unless things have changed since I last climbed them, access is by crossing the stream, then hiking up above them from down-canyon, and then rappelling into them. Both are very fun climbs when they are in.


@Doug, Thanks. I did some research and it looks like 'Raven' might be up near Logan. I am still trying to pin down exactly where.
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
45 points
Feb 25, 2013
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
@Doug, Thanks. I did some research and it looks like 'Raven' might be up near Logan. I am still trying to pin down exactly where.


Its south of Duchesne. Ditto Rough Neck.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
12,405 points


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