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Utah Wall
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Utah Crack T 

Utah Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 3,227
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 19, 2008

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Belaying the second on Utah Crack


This is an obvious two pitch crack at the center of the wall. The first pitch is about 100 feet long and allot of fun. It ends at a bolted belay. Pitch two goes to the top of the cliff and a belay must be built. Walk off to the south.


Center of the wall


A standard free rack is needed.

Photos of Utah Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch beta
BETA PHOTO: first pitch beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Poor quality photo (sorry) but shows the belay sta...
BETA PHOTO: Poor quality photo (sorry) but shows the belay sta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another sketchy photo but looks down from the top....
BETA PHOTO: Another sketchy photo but looks down from the top....
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Utah Crack May 2008
Leading Utah Crack May 2008

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2017
By wasatch-mtn-man
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun to do both pitches although one 60 m rope will take you to the top (barely). We rappelled off the top in lieu of walking off. We used two ropes but I have rapped off of this route using one rope to the belay station and then down.

There is an old, bent piton at the top but one can easily run a long sling around a crack for the anchor.

The belay station in the middle of the route has two good bolts at a nice ledge and easily accommodated our party of three.

From the 'hanging' belay we angled to climber's right to the alcove where the tree is then traversed left along an easy ramp. As I was the last to follow and the route had been cleaned, I simply went straight up the face which could be led but with more sketchy pro. Some of the flakes on this upper face had loose blocks on them.

Fun, easy route. Good route for intro to multi-pitch climbing.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Does anybody even know why those "hanging belay" anchors are even there? If you're going to rap, even from the top, go to the anchors on the ledge. Save yourself some trouble. Also, on top there are two sets of anchors to rap from: the obvious piton/sling rap, or the metal cable that is looped through a small hole 4 feet north of that one. The latter will be a much easier pull.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Sep 26, 2010

This is a good place to take beginners.
By Max Dillman
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun easy climb, excellents for beginners or those learning to place pro. Pitch one is very straight forward. The second pitch will make you scratch your head on where you're placing pro. There are also many loose blocks on the second pitch. Atop the second pitch there is now some really heavy duty webbing threaded through a crack. It has a rap ring on it and is excellent for getting down to pitch 1
By Shawn S. Barker
May 28, 2013

An excellent place to learn placing pro., to take a beginner, or to practice climbing using one hand to improve footwork and balance.
By Megan Henderson
From: Ogden, Utah
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This was my second trad lead. The first pitch is perfect for beginners because it is a nice long pitch with great stances, and easy to protect! I'd say the first pitch is 5.5. I followed on the second pitch, and I feel it is more of a 5.7 for short people. I recommend rapping off the second pitch instead of doing the walk off. The walk off is a mess and especially not fun in the dark. Lots of bushes, cacti, scrambling, and scree galore!
By Andrew Mayer
From: Driggs, ID
Jun 7, 2015

Pitch one is fun and recommended. Pitch 2 is not as enjoyable, due to the need to test nearly every hold prior to using. More solid than it looks but still a little unnerving. protects fairly well on small gear. 2-bolt anchor with chains if you trend a little left at the top. easy 2 rappels to the ground.
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a very relaxing line, just like taking a sunday afternoon stroll up the rock. Protects great all the way, did it with nothing but nuts and hexes.
By Evan Lockhart
Apr 12, 2016

Hi can someone please tell me the location of this climb I'm having a hard time finding it thanks
By Michael Whalen
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Awesome route!

Parked at hole in the wall and walked down to Utah Wall area, its 4th of July weekend so we had to run through the narrow sections where the shoulder disappears to avoid cars. Right after the grate on the shoulder the route is on the obvious screed trail to the left. I had three novice climbers with me so I actually established a fixed rope for them up and back down the screed and they were very pleased with that decision so I'd say if you have the time and rope it was worth it.

The climb itself was excellent, a lot of great big solid holds all the way the easily protected crack, I did use two smaller chalks but mostly cams up to #3 near the top.

Someone jammed a yellow cam pretty deep into the rock about 70ft up and there's no way to get that out, I used it with no concern but still placed a medium chalk nearby just in case.

there is a pretty loose "head-sized" rock near the first belay station so just be wary as you near it.

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