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Useless One 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Apr 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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In the middle of the climb.

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  • Description 

    This is a fun short crack which is mostly finger-sized. You use both finger locks and layback moves. You can top rope it after climbing Sunlight Arete if you did not bring gear. I only gave it one star because of its location. It is difficult to get to and not worth doing as a destination climb.

    Location 

    This route is a few feet to the right of the Sunlight Arete route. You start in the same place as the belay bolt for Sunlight Arete whose top anchor you use to descend.

    Protection 

    Gear to 2 inches in size. Mostly cams. Use the bolt anchors on Sunlight Arete at the top.


    Comments on Useless One Add Comment
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    By Adam Reke
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 2, 2014
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A few really fun moves but mostly choss climbing to get to the route, worth doing if you're in the area.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 17, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means.

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