Use it or Luge it Direct Start
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BETA PHOTO: photo
Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt, decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Climb past another bolt (added by FA party, 2014) and good holds (5.9+), then mantle and clip the third (used to be the second) bolt.
Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens. Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch. In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.
Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above]
In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "Use It Express" and listed in the database.
- Thanks to Andrew and Nathan for new bolts and new information. Directly from Nathan:
Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.
Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.