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Use It Or Lose It 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Chris Knuth
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This is probably one of the least-climbed routes at Rifle -- not because it's low quality, but because the bolts are all in the wrong spots.

Originally envisioned as a tough directissima that tackled the left-trending seam/crack just left of Pretty Hate Machine, this line actually climbs a bit right of and above the seam at the crux, making it hell'a hard to clip the bolts. To boot, tick marks pasted on the wall *10* years ago have yet to wash off, resulting in a helter-skelter slathering of sucker chalk.

Scramble up onto the Pretty Hate Machine choss ledge. Start just left of Pretty Hate, making big moves to good holds on increasingly steep rock. When the route reaches its steepest, set up and do a big lunge up and right to the sloping foot rail on Pretty Hate Machine (people stand on this when they're resting below the top crux of Pretty Hate). Glom the boot-rubber slope, and work back left, reaching way left at shin height to clip in (good luck!). Easier climbing leads to the anchor.

Were this re-bolted, it would be a pretty cool, bouldery route.


8 draws.

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