Use It Express
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Poor photo but good beta. The two variation starts...
I've been meaning to post up this nice doubly direct start for a while now...
Discovered while assisting Andrew M. with adding bolts to his direct variation, this route cleaned up very well upon removal of a few key loose flakes, leaving behind great holds on steep rock. As is, it's probably the best way to start Use It Or Luge It (at least in the sub 11+ range), as it only goes at 9+ at the start, and 10- at the top, which is the short second pitch of Use It...
Start out left on the apron in a short right facing corner with a god TCU at full reach. Climb past this and through the steeper wall past 2 bolts on good holds to merge into the groove above the crux of the direct start. Continue up past 2 more bolts (new ones thanks to Andrew) to merge into the original 2nd pitch. Continue past 3 more bolts and a key #.75 camelot to the anchor. 180' This is a nice and straight moderate line.
Between the original start (way left) and the hard direct start (right).
light rack up to # 1 camelot.