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Lower West Spoon Crack T 
Use Dipper S 

Use Dipper 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Oct. 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Use Dipper is really just a series of mantles on to good ledges with big rests but is moderately entertaining I suppose.
Pull up onto, you guessed it, a big ledge and clip the first bolt. Repeat this procedure past three more bolts and then to the anchor. I tried to place the bolts so that average folks can reach em to clip yet not hit the ledge on a fall below. (That sounds more ominous than it really turns out to be as the wall overhangs a bit so the falls are clean.)

Location 

This is the only bolted route on the wall and goes up the center. Look for the belay bolt at the base.

Protection 

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. A belay bolt at the base will keep the belayer out of the brier patch to the right and keep the leader from falling too far.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Entertaining route. The mantles are actually pretty casual; the crux is definitely going from the last bolt to the chains.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 29, 2009

Hi Chris. As the one that put those bolts in, I'm curious if it's really a spinner (bolt in the rock is spinning) or if just the nut is loose and therefore the hanger is loose? The bolts are 3.5" wedge bolts so I'm guessing it's not a true spinner (as I define spinner.)
We're finding that a good number of nuts need a re-tightening after some usage. Probably because the relatively soft rock and the bolt slowly "settling in" over time. Also the surface of the rock under the hangers frequently flakes off a bit creating a space. I've been taking a wrench with me to UEF and re-tightening the bolts on the routes after I climb them again.
Thanks for the update...I'll get on this one next time and tighten it up. It's probably a good idea for anyone climbing at UEF to take a small adjustable wrench along too.

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