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Enter at Your Own Risk S 
Unknown Aid Climb T 
Use a Gun, Go to Jail S 
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Use a Gun, Go to Jail 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Archer, Dave Lucero, 9/89
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Locker on Sep 1, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Use A Gun, Go To Jail, 5.9

Description 

The climb is mostly friction with a bit of edging. The rock is somewhat gritty but it poses no problem. It is located at the end of the Sheep Pass parking area between Ryan Campground and the Sheep Pass Group Camping area. Walk along the road and around Grotto Rock going to the right and look left. It is obvious from there. It is the climb on the left and is in the sun most of the day.

Protection 

There are three bolts in good condition and a single remaining rap anchor that is rusted and to me questionable. We did not use it and instead climbed around to the top of “Enter at your own risk” (5.9) and used the boulder set up with slings to rap off of.


Comments on Use a Gun, Go to Jail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 13, 2004

The webbing on top are getting kind of shitty and I suggest that should you choose to do this one that you replace them.
By Geoff Archer
Nov 6, 2007

FA: Geoff Archer, Dave Lucero 9/89. Bolted on the lead with the newly banned Bosch, this route was a proverbial "last great act of defiance" to spite the rulemakers.

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