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Ishinca Valley
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Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes 
Karma de los Cóndores T 
Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face T 
Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. 
Tocllaraju Northwest Ridge 
Urus Central (South Face) 
West Face Indirect 

Urus Central (South Face) 

AI2-3 M2+ R

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original: AI2-3 M2+ Steep Snow R [details]
FA: 
Season: July-September
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Eric Rich on Mar 15, 2013

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some more climbing on route

Description 

Depending on the conditions at the time, this climb can vary wildly. We found gravel ice, steep snow, some mixed, and some alpine ice.

Approach the climb by approaching Urus Este in the Ischinca Valley, then head left (west) across a small glacier towards Urus Central which is the next highest peak to the left of Este. You can pretty much find your own way up the South Face, making it as easy or hard as you want. The easiest route we found followed several small ice gullies up the face. After ~1200 feet of climbing, we gained the summit ridge, which is ~100 yards/100 vertical feet from the summit. This ridge can be very corniced and is full of loose rock.

See pictures and their captions for more beta regarding the approach and the climb.

Protection 

3-4 ice screws
1-2 snow stakes
full rack of nuts


Photos of Urus Central (South Face) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the summit ridge
the summit ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: once you find the central gully, head through this...
once you find the central gully, head through this...
Rock Climbing Photo: just an idea of the average climbing difficulty on...
just an idea of the average climbing difficulty on...
Rock Climbing Photo: once you climb out of the valley behind the refuge...
once you climb out of the valley behind the refuge...

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