Urus Central (South Face)
AI2-3 M2+ R
||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200', Grade III
|Original: ||AI2-3 M2+ Steep Snow R [details]|
|Page Views: ||634|
|Submitted By: ||Eric Rich on Mar 15, 2013|
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some more climbing on route
Depending on the conditions at the time, this climb can vary wildly. We found gravel ice, steep snow, some mixed, and some alpine ice.
Approach the climb by approaching Urus Este in the Ischinca Valley, then head left (west) across a small glacier towards Urus Central which is the next highest peak to the left of Este. You can pretty much find your own way up the South Face, making it as easy or hard as you want. The easiest route we found followed several small ice gullies up the face. After ~1200 feet of climbing, we gained the summit ridge, which is ~100 yards/100 vertical feet from the summit. This ridge can be very corniced and is full of loose rock.
See pictures and their captions for more beta regarding the approach and the climb.
3-4 ice screws
1-2 snow stakes
full rack of nuts
once you find the central gully, head through this...
just an idea of the average climbing difficulty on...
once you climb out of the valley behind the refuge...