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Palisade Head
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 
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Rapprochement T,TR 
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Socket Wrench T,TR 
Soli Deo Gloria T 
Squab T 
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 
Superior Arete T,TR 
Superior Crack T,TR 
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 
Urge to Mate T,TR 
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 
Water Babies T,TR 
Wise Guys T,TR 
Withering Heights T,TR 
Yellow Feather T 

Urge to Mate 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter L Scott and Chris Holbeck, 1988.
Page Views: 4,163
Submitted By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Cheyne leading Urge to Mate


From RCM&W

A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.


#2 camalots & Smaller

Photos of Urge to Mate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott
FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect pin protects precarious protuberance.
BETA PHOTO: Perfect pin protects precarious protuberance.
Rock Climbing Photo: FA photo showing block at beginning of crack.  Cli...
FA photo showing block at beginning of crack. Cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Urge to Mate
BETA PHOTO: Urge to Mate
Rock Climbing Photo: on lead
on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Johnson on "Urge to Mate" at Palisa...
BETA PHOTO: Matt Johnson on "Urge to Mate" at Palisa...
Rock Climbing Photo: top-out.

Comments on Urge to Mate Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 23, 2008

calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut.
By Peter L Scott
Sep 20, 2011

FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA

Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.

I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .

Glad to see people climbing this route.
By Scott Schumann
From: SLC, UT
Nov 29, 2012

So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it!

Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake.
By Backwards Eric
Aug 1, 2015

There's a lost arrow and rusty bolt at the starting belay ledge. I reinforced it with a #5 C4. My rack suggestion would be three #2 C4, one #3 C4, and a #1 and #2 Metolius Master cam near the top below the pin.
By David Murphy
Aug 7, 2017

I left a stuck #3 today 8/7/17. If anyone gets it out I would love to buy you a case of beer or something in exchange for it back.
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Sep 11, 2017

Great route, it's just so short for the Head!

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