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Nap Wall Area
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Urethra 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 25, 2016

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Urethra running up the Nap is pretty easy to see f...

Description 

This enjoyable face climb goes straight up the middle of one of the main features of the dome. Not-a-penis. At 5.8 there is just enough friction to make it a pleasurable experience and the protection is adequate so you can enjoy the climax of the route without much worry. You can stop at the intermediate rap anchor/belay but if you are having fun it can be pretty darn hard to stop halfway.

Location 

The start of the climb is at the very tip of the not-a-p***s, reached via easy 5th class scrambling from the very bottom.

On the topo image found under "Nap Wall Area", this is climb number 10.

Protection 

Bolts, with ring anchors on both belay stations. It is a 70 meter (two 70 meter ropes) rap from the top chains.


Photos of Urethra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route goes straight up the clean wall between ...
The route goes straight up the clean wall between ...

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By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 18, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Tried to climb in 1 pitch. Came up short of the anchors by about 5 meters (belayer was at the tip of the penis, not at the lower bushes). Belayer had to climb up the left ramp so I could anchor in.
The pitches appear to be something like 32m and 43m. To rap with one 70m rope we had to use the anchor of "Under my Skin", followed by the mid station of this route. 3 raps total.

The top anchor of P2 seems unnecessarily high on low angle slab. If it was placed 35 meters above the P1 anchors the logistics would be much better.

Getting to the 1st bolt is a bit spicy, hence PG13.
By Ney Grant
From: Pollock Pines, CA
Sep 18, 2017

Hi Bruce,

In retrospect, we could have done it better. "Urethra" was already there in 2015 as a series of old 1/4" bolts and leper hangers. We don't know who did it. Two bolts were at the top. We didn't bother measuring, we just replaced what was there and picked a bolt lower to add another to for a belay.

I did want to go back and see how it works with one rope but never did.

Your suggestion of moving the top belay station down sounds good and if I'm out there doing any work with the drill I'll do that.
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 19, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Hi Ney. Right on, that explains the somewhat out of character bolting/anchor job. Yeah, a little bit of adjustment would make a huge improvement to the logistics.
And I should have said above, it is a fun route!

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