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Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

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Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Rock Climbing 

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Location: -22.9499, -43.1591 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Raiden, Tony Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.

Getting There 

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Urca (Pao de Acucar area):
Coringa   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Chamine Stop   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Costao   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 1000'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Luis Arnaud   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Morro da Babilonia
Via dos Italianos   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Secundo Costa Neto   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Featured Route For Urca (Pao de Acucar area)
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the second pitch of "Cavalo Louco&q...

Cavalo Louco 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.At the top of pitch 5 on big le...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Urca (Pao de Acucar area) Add Comment
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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 7, 2012
This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins?
By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Apr 14, 2015
You can buy a guidebook at the newspaper stand at the entrance to the Urca area -- the roundabout where the cable car leaves for Pao de Acucar.

In 2015, the guidebook costs 50 reals (about $17 USD at the time). The guy selling the book didn't know anything about the area, and doesn't speak English. Just ask for "Guia da Escalada" (think that's right!)

The guidebook is all in Portuguese, but the topos, and basic descriptions, are fairly easy to understand.

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