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The Solarium
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Urban Voodoo S 

Urban Voodoo 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Martin, Brian Boyd, Andrew Gearing 2005
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Raiden on Oct 6, 2014

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Description 

This route shares a few holds at the start with its neighbor Delicatessen before moving left to a good shelf at the first draw. It then moves immediately into a very tough boulder problem that ends above the second bolt. Stick clipping the second bolt isn't a bad idea (probably not possible from the ground unless you have a super long stick). Move through easier terrain to the roof where you clip the roof draw from an iron oxide rail. Use a couple of sharp sidepulls in the roof to gain better holds at the lip and move onto the headwall to follow generally good holds to the top.

Location 

Between Magnum Opus and Delicatessen. 5th line from the left at Solarium.

Protection 

10 bolts to anchor (fixed draws from the start to the roof).


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