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S-Curve - Upper Wall
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Urban Sprawl S,TR 

Urban Sprawl 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1990
Page Views: 2,466
Submitted By: Lee Gitlin on May 13, 2004

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Talia On Urban Sprawl


Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top. On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below. The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east. So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised: the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.


Five bolts, bomber links at the anchors.

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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 15, 2005

Is there supposed to be a bolt in between #3 and #4? That is a pretty big fall (possible grounder) and considering how well everything else is bolted... it seems like one belongs there. Also, above #3 do u head straight up the bulge or hang right or left? Straight up seemed harder than 10a but going right or left seems off route.
By Rebecca Airmet
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If you plan on top-roping this, consider clipping the bolts on rappel to avoid the swing to the right. This will also allow you to actually get back on the route if you pop off. There are also now two sets of anchors at the top, one each for this and Clean Underwear, right next to each other.
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Good route. Fits right in to the area. Looking up at the distance between bolt 3 & 4, I felt there must be another bolt. However, when you get there and realize there isn't, it isn't that big of a deal as it pretty easy climbing.
By Shaun Greene
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Strange bolt placements. Use long Runners through the crux.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Steep and fun 10a. Definitely feels a bit runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it's on easy ground. Don't fall, and if you're grabbing a bad hold you're probably missing a jug nearby. The traverse under the roof heading right is weird, the really low hands force you to arch backward if you don't want to rub your face on the rock. Interesting moves.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Biiiiiiiiggggg Jugs with lots of rests. Not sure it is all that runout, felt pretty standard to me. Super fun!
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 12, 2012

Long sling recommended for bolt 4. If you TRing it, be sure to back-clip bolts 5, 4 (long), and 3. I think the crux is at the bottom - consider a stick clip or treating as a boulder problem and clipping the 1st bolt when its at your waist. Great route!
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

pretty sustained, hit it up.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

While somewhat runout, the climbing in between is easy. Keep your head and you'll do fine. Plenty of places to rest and shakeout. Steep and juggy. Fun climb
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I top roped it. I went straight up the bolt line. I want to go back and do it on lead but I noticed it good be a bit of a gnarly fall if you mess up on the crux at the bulge. If you go right over the bulge it felt a little harder than some other 10a's in BCC.

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