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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 
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Break On Through to Chianti T 
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown to me
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 10, 2010

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  • Description 

    This route is an alternative to the last pitch of Long John Wall. Get yourself to the start of the last pitch of that route to set yourself up for this one. About ten feet to the right, you'll see an alcove with a small tree. This route takes the wide crack up the right side of the alcove. Even though the crack is quite wide in places, there are spots for regular size gear. There are a couple of pins right before the wide section. They both look dubious and there is better gear nearby.


    This route starts about ten feet to the right of the start of the last pitch of Long John Wall. Look for an alcove with a small tree in the left side of the alcove.

    To descend, scramble climber's left to the descent for Long John Wall back to the large ledge.


    Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

    Comments on Uranus Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jan 13, 2010

    I found it prudent to build an anchor at the base of the final pitch of LJW, then extend the anchor to the beginning of this pitch. Also, though it is a wide crack, I wouldn't at all call this an 'off-width' pitch. I used maybe one off-width move on the whole thing. Nice alternative to the final pitch of Long John's (though there's nothing wrong with finishing that way, either). Bring small gear.
    By Barry Collins
    Nov 23, 2011

    I like this pitch, there's hidden jugs in/around the "offwidth". Big cam useful higher up. I found ample cracks to build an anchor at the base. Yes, pins are dubious.
    By Evan Deis
    Jun 21, 2013

    Pins are good. No need for anything bigger than a #3.
    By MacP
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 3, 2016

    The crux protected with small cams. The offwidth is far too big for a #4 until higher up, maybe a #6, but don't bother carrying one.

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