|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Olaf Mitchell and Peter Prandoni|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Stricker on Dec 17, 2007|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Uptown Toodeloo||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Scott Bennett
Feb 24, 2009
Another fine route in the Poe trifecta! Although not quite as good as its classic neighbors, it's definitely worth getting on if you're up there. Don't let the grade scare you away, it's not really a harder lead than the other 2 routes here, especially if you're decently tall. My partner and I are both 6', and we both thought that the "crux" protected by the bolts wasn't as hard as the off-balance, pumpy, and hard-to-protect lie-backing above. Luckily there's a fixed nut there at the moment.
There's a nice new bolt and chain anchor atop p2, but it looks like you'd need 2 ropes to rap from here back to the main ledge. Fortunately you can easily rap down and right about 30' feet to the anchor atop Half-step, and from there back to the main ledge (a 70m rope may be required for this rap, see comments for Half-step).
By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 28, 2009
I found that U.T. was far more enjoyable with that fixed nut in place.
Thanks for the possitive report Scott, I always enjoyed the line every time I did it.It's a stand alone route that compliments it's two brothers very well.