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Upper Peanuts
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Sunrider S,TR 
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Upstairs T 

Upstairs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: L. Dalke & B. Chase, 1965.
Season: Cold in Winter, mostly afternoon sun.
Page Views: 1,817
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the offwidth near the ...

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  • Description 

    This route is a clean, right-facing dihedral parallel to and just right of the climb Sunrider.

    Approach as for Sunrider, then climb the obvious dihedral to the right.

    Climb the dihedral through hand-to-off-fist moves placing good gear along the way. This is a fun route of jamming, stemming, and lie-backs.

    A single set of cams should be sufficient for a strong leader, but a double set of cams would be better if you are not strong at 5.9 and want to protect the more closely.

    To descend, belay over from the top to rig a rap from the top of Sunrider, or scramble up to the southwest to the rough trail down to the Northwest from up above Upper Peanuts Wall.

    Protection 

    A double set of cams, hand-sized to #4.


    Photos of Upstairs Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A nice crack of varying sizes.
    A nice crack of varying sizes.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a rest.
    Taking a rest.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nice, shady climb for a hot day.
    Nice, shady climb for a hot day.
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Upstairs Dihedral from the start.  The rou...
    BETA PHOTO: View of Upstairs Dihedral from the start. The rou...

    Comments on Upstairs Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By pete cogan
    Jun 3, 2002

    Terrific route. Here's an alternative descent: rap back to the start on the Sunrider anchors (bring webbing). Then walk down to the ramp and rap down the gully from the tree with the horizontal trunk section. 60m rope.Check out the picture in Rossiter's guide of this tree. The webbing and rap ring were put on June 2, 2002. The rap will leave you 10 feet above the ground and 15 feet from the start of Heavy Weather. Easy mini downclimb.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jul 16, 2002

    If you do this on the same day as the stiffie, The Cruise, you'd find this is the far softer of the two. It was perhaps once rated 5.6.
    By Friso Schlottau
    Jul 1, 2005

    Very short. The tree in the pictures makes the route look longer than it is. Still fun, though. There are only two short sections of true off-width, the rest of the way the crack has good holds inside, or it's hand/fist sized jamming.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Apr 23, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The Rossiter book gives an FA date of 1980, and that it might be possible that it is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs 5.6, 1965', but that the rating of 5.6 is far off the mark. I think that it probably is the upper pitch of 'Upstairs' and was probably first done in 1965, or at least some time well before 1980. My basis for this is:

    a) a prominent dihedral like this wouldn't have been passed up until 1980,

    b) the rating of 5.6 seems pretty accurate. It definitely isn't 5.9.

    Fun, albeit short, pitch.
    By slevin
    Aug 12, 2007

    This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965.

    According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980:
    "Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral."

    It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.
    By Stich
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Aug 8, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    We found this pitch delightful, having missed the correct way to finish Heavy Weather. 5.8 sounds about right.

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