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Upper Washbowl Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterflies are Free T 
Feet of Fire T 
Flashdance T 
Hesitation T 
Northern Revival T 
Overture T 
Partition T 
Prelude T 
Weekend Warrior S 
Wiessner Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Washbowl Cliff Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.14256, -73.7438 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,715
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: colin loher on Jun 11, 2008


68° | 50°

68° | 52°

71° | 58°

72° | 61°

72° | 59°
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Multipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary.

Getting There 

Approach as for the Creature Wall. From the Creature Wall continue left along the base following a faint climbers trail uphill and left for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Washbowl Cliff:
Wiessner Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Hesitation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Prelude   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Butterflies are Free   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Partition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Overture   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Weekend Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Washbowl Cliff

Featured Route For Upper Washbowl Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Weekend Warrior.

Weekend Warrior 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Upper Washbowl Cliff
I'm only describing the quality first pitch here. Lawyer and Haas make it a point to indicate that the upper pitches don't really get climbed much. From what I could see, it's clear why.The first pitch offers incredible face climbing with a tricky crux.Climb up to the first bolt and trend up and left to the forth bolt. A tricky and thin sequence left brings you to the small, shallow left-facing corner/edge and the last bolt. Make a hard move to the ledge (crux) and around the arete and up easier...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Upper Washbowl Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Upper Washbowl Cliff in pen and ink
The Upper Washbowl Cliff in pen and ink
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic from Upper Washbowl
Panoramic from Upper Washbowl
Rock Climbing Photo: Partition is the long dark corner towards the left...
BETA PHOTO: Partition is the long dark corner towards the left...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Washbowl, winter 2013
Upper Washbowl, winter 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.
Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Washbowl
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl

Comments on Upper Washbowl Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 29, 2009
Descent Note: The Partition rappel is "problematic". Rappelling from the top of Partition with a single 60m rope gets you to the 3rd-class ramp but most likely will not make it to the fixed anchor (a cedar) above Mastercharge. A single 60m rope will not make it to the ground from here. There is a smaller cedar about half-way down with an awful stance that has a fixed anchor, though it has a continuously changing supply of leaver biners that are cleaned and then replaced (two ropes will get you to the ground).
The ledge the large cedar is on has a couple slots where the ropes can become jammed, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. You can wedge a stick in there to prevent the rope from running in the slots or ensure you run the ropes over the lip, and not in the slots.
By Jim Lawyer
Aug 29, 2009
Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 24, 2011
When rappelling from the large cedar on the 3rd class ledge, you can use a stick in the crack as a back-up but it is pretty easy to keep the ropes on the lip as you rappel. If you use the "stick in the crack" method, be sure to bring one from the ground. Don't break one off of the tree. Also, I didn't think the walk-off was all that bad. Yeah, it's loose in a few sections but it's pretty quick and hassle-free.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Sep 16, 2013
the guidebook makes the walk off descent sound terrible but I didn't find the descent on the climbers left side of the cliff to be problematic at all, in fact it's no more difficult than hiking back down the approach trail. I would highly recommend saving yourself the hassle and just use the walk off. it's very easy to follow.
By Matt Luck
Oct 12, 2013
A 70m rope will reach from the top of Partition to the cedar on the 3rd class ledge and will also reach from the cedar to the ground.
By mattparrilla
Jun 8, 2015
Descent: I strongly second Dominic's comment. The walk off on climber's left side is the best and easiest way down if you're on the left half of the wall.
By Systematic
May 24, 2016
For descent from the right side: we picked up a good trail from the top of overture that took us into the woods. Follow this until you see a rocky cliff edge to your right, go over it, and look down and left. There's a small cairn leading to a rap tree. Rappel from here to the ledge ~30' below and find another rappel tree at the (skier's) left end. About 33m to the ground.

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