Upper Rio Puerco Valley Rock Climbing
|All but a handful of these some dozen volcanic necks have gated closures due to grazing leases|
On a typical day from Highway 550 north of San Ysidro you can see a half dozen volcanic plugs off to the west. Cabezon & Guadalupe are the nearest, the rest lie on private range land and are almost always gated.
The rock is typically welded tuff & basalt. Though quality varies widely there are often patches of solid rock. Cabezon, the most developed in terms of trails & signage, sees the most activity from local mountain clubs. If there are many cars in the parking lot, consider coming back another day.
Turnoff lies midway between San Ysidro & Cuba. The sign along US 550 indicates a turn west toward Torreon. State Road 279 is paved the first dozen or so miles before abruptly turning to dirt. Make a sharp left turn down a hill & up the other side, then look for another left turn going about a half mile up to parking. The trail is obvious & skirts the south shoulder of Cabezon to reach the standard ascent route on the SE side.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Upper Rio Puerco Valley
SE Gully (Standard Route) 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b New Mexico
: Upper Rio Puerco Valley
: Cabezon Peak
Climb talus toward the obvious gully, which features a few boulder-type moves on quality rock. Above here the standard line makes a slightly dropping traverse right (north) before heading straight up. It is possible to go more or less straight up but this is all high angle talus where numerous accidents have occurred. Pick your line carefully.As a side note, there is some potential for further development on this peak. A UNM Mountaineering Club trip in 1974, for example, climbed a direct lin...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico