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Upper Northeast Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdman T,TR 
Last Grapes T 
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit T 
Like'n to Lichen/Bitchin' Lichen  T 
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe T 
North East Rib T 

Upper Northeast Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
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Description 

This wall is just past the far left end of the North Face.

Getting There 

The shortest approach is the North Face trail. If you aren’t familiar with the area, the best strategy may be to take the main approach trail up to Lunch Rock, then hike left along the base of the rock. From the base of the North Face, hike left. Just after you pass the last route (Northeast Farce), scramble left up a gully.

Climbing Season

For the Tahquitz Rock area.

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Northeast Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Northeast Buttress:
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Northeast Buttress

Featured Route For Upper Northeast Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Last Grapes.  Head up the crack past ...

Last Grapes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Northeast Buttress
A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think that’s a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. There’s a blocky ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Upper Northeast Buttress Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 26, 2010
The scramble up is on the climbers' right of the routes. It goes up a blocky gulley. We roped up for the last little section where it gets more difficult.