Upper Mighty Mouse Wall Rock Climbing
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|Submitted By: ||Matt Lisenby on Mar 31, 2009|
Ryan Cowan on Evergreen, 5.11a.
The unique rock on these routes is unlike typical Unaweep granite. It is fractured at sharp angles and forms a flat wall with overhangs and roofs. As with almost all unaweep rock, some small features are still loose use caution, a helmet is recommended. All of these routes require some traditional climbing gear! The wall is shady in the summer until around 1 oclock. Routes 1-3 share the same anchor, which could be accessed for top-roping.
The approach: Drive 1.8 miles west of the divide road on Hwy 141. The crag is located on the south(left) side of the road. Park in a large pull-out on the north side of the road that is ~ 100 feet past the crag. Find an isolated, small corner of public access over the fence (the top wire of the barbed wire fence is cut) just east of a telephone pole with a yellow, plastic cover over a support wire. Refer to p. 62 KC Baums Grand Junction Rock Guide for route info on the lower crag and a good orientation picture. Generally, the trail goes left across a small wash for ~ 100 yards before making subtle uphill switchbacks, then crosses a scrub oak area and heads uphill again (steep) towards a weakness in a short cliffband. Past the cliffband go uphill again ~100 feet, then rising left towards the crag across loose scree and dirt. The approach accesses the cliff from the right at route #1.
Climbing Season For the Main Canyon: Unaweep Granite area.
Weather station 17.3 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Upper Mighty Mouse Wall
1. Private Idaho 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Colorado
: Grand Junction Area
: ... : Upper Mighty Mouse Wall
1. Private Idaho 5.11a *** Start behind a dead tree at the base of a dihedral, where a fixed nut is visible from below. Climb the tricky, light-colored dihedral on mixed gear, traverse below roof to gain the upper black dihedral (crux). Finish up headwall (shallow, small TCU after 1st bolt is recommended to prevent ledge fall). A challenging mantle can be done after clipping the top anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: Topo wide view.
BETA PHOTO: Topo & orientation photo - Upper Mighty Mouse Crag...
By Alex Garhart
Jun 23, 2009
Anybody know if the semi-detached tower in front of Mighty Mouse has seen an ascent? It looks pretty friendly.
By Matt Lisenby
Jun 26, 2009
agarhart - look in Baum's Grand Junction Rock guidebook for mighty mouse wall - one route is documented there (p. 62) on the most obvious buttress. That's all I know of in the lower cliff band.
By Austin Cooner
Mar 28, 2015
There is definitely some loose rock up there, broke a hold and took a groundfall before clipping the 2nd bolt. Helmet is highly suggested!