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Upper Meadow

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Cambodia 
First Buttress 
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Upper Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,099
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Kevin Umbel digging into the Corner Pocket (13a) a...

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Description 

Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

81 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',23],['5.11',21],['5.12',22],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
First, Last, and Always   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Elliott   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Cambodia
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   First Buttress
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   First Buttress
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Bittersweet   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up on cross eyed and blind

Cross Eyed and Blind 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
This route makes a nice warm up for many of the other harder lines at this cliff and it's a great climb. Start is the same as for Lambda but at the first bolt head left and continue to diagonal up and left. Use a long runner when clipping the first bolt on Lambda to reduce the rope drag. The entire climb involves making long reaches to really positive horizontals, many of these horizontals offer great hand jams for rests. Continue to a large ledge under the upper overhanging headwall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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