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Upper Meadow

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Upper Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,216
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Alex moving into the steep jugs after crushing the...

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Description 

Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

84 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',24],['5.11',21],['5.12',22],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
Infatuation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zero Buttress
Berecik   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zero Buttress
Nasty Wieners   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Zero Buttress
Girl Boner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Zero Buttress
Bullocks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Second Buttress
Lieutenant Tomek    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Third Buttress
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   First Buttress
Alleluja   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 106'   Third Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: REACH!

The Prow 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Third Buttress
Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a lo...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

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