Upper Meadow Rock Climbing
Kevin Umbel digging into the Corner Pocket (13a) a...
Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.
Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.
Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
81 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Meadow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Meadow
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Meadow:
Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Cross Eyed and Blind 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : First Buttress
This route makes a nice warm up for many of the other harder lines at this cliff and it's a great climb. Start is the same as for Lambda but at the first bolt head left and continue to diagonal up and left. Use a long runner when clipping the first bolt on Lambda to reduce the rope drag. The entire climb involves making long reaches to really positive horizontals, many of these horizontals offer great hand jams for rests. Continue to a large ledge under the upper overhanging headwall. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV