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Upper Lip 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio?
Page Views: 2,087
Submitted By: Jon Cannon on Jun 5, 2002

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If you've slogged up either Schooldaze or Jaws, this route is the pay-off. From atop the bathtubs, move up to the horizontal crack which appears to demarcate the turret after which this rock is named. The beginning of the vertical hand crack ascending from this point is slightly overhanging, but the gear and the holds are all bomber. Once the crack starts to peter out after forty or fifty feet, move left to some large blocks which will take you up to the summit.


Large nuts, medium to large hexes, cams to three inches, and a place for a pink tricam near the start of the route.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Summit options.
BETA PHOTO: Summit options.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2015
By Darin Lang
Jun 5, 2002

"Slightly overhanging" start? I think you're just being coy. The start is actually a small roof that must be negotiated in order to gain the crack proper. This route is indeed a "reward" for slogging up Jaws or Schooldaze - quite fun, if disappointingly short.
By Jon Cannon
Jun 5, 2002

Define "coy", Darin. ;-) Perhaps for those of us with simian arms, it doesn't feel like much of a roof. Now, if only I had simian strength to go with it ...

Seriously, though. I thought I'd read somewhere that to be a true "roof", it has to project from the main wall about six feet. Am I just making up something out of the aether?
By Darin Lang
Jun 5, 2002

Coy: overmodest, affectedly bashful.

I call it a "roof" if any part of it is near horizontal. Makes me feel better, as in: "Dude, that roof was heinous!" ; "you mean that undercling flake?"

In this case, I'd say the horizontal part is at least 3 feet.
By James Burns
May 17, 2004

Hard to call any moves harder then 5.7, but definitely awkward going over the roof. I kept going straight up after the crack ended instead of trending left. Still no harder than 5.7, but keeps the climbing interesting for a bit longer.
By Squid
Jun 23, 2005

So i guess whining over the actualy terminology of a roof is the cool thing to do. Either enjoy the route or dont , kinda simple?
By Jeff Bryan
From: Cortez, co
Jul 25, 2007

I think this is no harder then 5.5. I first climbed this in the mid eighties and my friend said 5.4. It is not a roof just a high crack in a roof.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jul 14, 2008

Sorry Jeff, but I'd say no less than 5.7. Perhaps you are thinking of the crack maybe 25 feet to the climber's right of the one shown in the picture. I have seen the right one rated at 5.4, perhaps in the Falcon guide, and it felt like 5.4.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was a great finish to SchoolDaze. Taller climbers will find the "roof" move fairly moderate (I called it 5.7+), because the crack is excellent and you can step up high with your feet. But shorter climbers will find it much more difficult because they will not have much for their feet to work with. My only complaint about this pitch is that it was just too short....
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 26, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I either suck at crack climbing or this is harder than 5.7. I used the finger crack to pull over this versus jamming...maybe that was the problem. Still...a super fun climb!
By Karl Kiser
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed Sunshine Face to get to this exit with a light rack (wires, one set cams #0.5 to #4 Camalot and long draws). The moves at the wider crack are not too hard with help from face holds on the right. The #4 is good somewhat up the crack. Things get a bit more murky at the top of the crack where it becomes horizontal. I didn't see a clear crack to the left, although it appears that a traverse this way and up is the route. We continued right about 20 feet, with a piece to keep the rope out of the crack, and then climbed a steeper crack (#3 Camalot here, 5.8? and harder than Upper Lip) and went to the top. Great views....
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 6, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this to top off Jaws. After the lip, we followed the crack up and left where there is one more lip/bulge like move, both are well-protected with cams. As for the rating, it's an 'old-school' 5.7 (little stiffer than modern). Pulling the lip is the crux.

Plug a cam, keep a snug belay, and go for it! It's a fun climb.

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